new pc died x-mass night

[borg_7_of_9]

Ok so on the 17th I upgraded a PC, new Mobo, CPU PIIx2 555, RAM, Video Card GTS250, HDD and PSU.. (PSU Thermaltake 550W)

I have built a crap load of PC so and the Install went smooth, even the small wiring mod to get the Acer power button and hdd/power light's to work with the Gigabyte Mobo..

I install Win XP (Corporate) the GB mobo driver's, video driver's and hook up to my net to install all the windows updates finishing a few hours later.

Leave it on for a bit just to monitor some temp's and make sure it's all working as it should be before putting it away for x-mass..

Well after a 2 hour drive I deliver the PC to my friend's and later that night get a call something like this, I plugged in the pc turned it on and i see big blue spark's and now it's not working..

Well it's on it's way back.... So +rep for who get's the correct diag, And any though's on what went wrong..

I believe the PSU was faulty! (Will know more later)

Also does Anyone know If xp corporate is like the server version?

[Gone'Postal]

Like the server version in what way?

Also, Did you take that PC from a hot car, to a cold road, to a hot house then plugged it right in or did you leave it a while?

But yes, Power Supply gone.

[masta121]

There was obviously a short in something. Hopefully it didn't kill other components. The PSU is the main suspect though.

[pmc64]

Well big blue sparks probably means the power supply. It probably fried all the other components.

[SM darren]

if it was a decent gigabyte mobo it should have saved the other parts

power supply sounds like a lost cause though

[M249LMG]

How many times did you boot the PC up before you took it to your friends? Always a good idea to do a test of reboots to make sure it's always turning on.

My idea is that the PC was fine and the problem lies with your friends plugs/wires that caused the PSU to blow or the PSU was going to blow anyway.

[wuliheron]

I hope you didn't forget the mobo standoffs...

[Silicon Vampire]

I would have tested the bejesus out of it until you brought it to him... there is no substitute for a proper burn-in.

[Keldorn]

I once see a spark fly out of my case. It was from the molex connector touching the case.Since then I use electrical tape and close the ones not being used.

[Bad_Motha]

I'd say you either had a molex (or exposed 3-pin) touch metal in the case or motherboard pins. Or you're wire-mod for the front panel didn't work so well. Either way always do good burn-in testing over a 24 - 48 hr period to ensure it will hold up.

Always secure any loose wiring with zip ties and if any possibility of an exposed connection, use electrical tape to ensure the connection is secured to where it won't be exposed and be subject to touching something else.

Whenever you transport a system (or ship systems or parts), always allow everything to reach close to your ambient room temp before plugging it in and/or turning it on. If the system was in cold air during transport for example and the system cooled to that air, bringing it inside a warm house and unpacking it could allow humidity differences which result is slight bit of moisture on the system. Usually this alone is not an issue, but it's best to allow the system/parts proper time to change temps before you go running the machine.

I seen this happen sometime. Like you transporting something in your vehicle and it's been in the trunk long enough to get cold, then bringing it inside where it's warm and turning the component on shortly after without proper temperature transition and the hardware fries.

[borg_7_of_9]

I hope you didn't forget the mobo standoffs... First POST built a crap load of PC's hmm 25 year's EXP

I would have tested the bejesus out of it until you brought it to him... there is no substitute for a proper burn-in.

well lots of reboot's, It is windows XP 104+ updates a full power of and restart too.

I'd say you either had a molex (or exposed 3-pin) touch metal in the case or motherboard pins. Or you're wire-mod for the front panel didn't work so well. Either way always do good burn-in testing over a 24 - 48 hr period to ensure it will hold up.

Always secure any loose wiring with zip ties and if any possibility of an exposed connection, use electrical tape to ensure the connection is secured to where it won't be exposed and be subject to touching something else.

Whenever you transport a system (or ship systems or parts), always allow everything to reach close to your ambient room temp before plugging it in and/or turning it on. If the system was in cold air during transport for example and the system cooled to that air, bringing it inside a warm house and unpacking it could allow humidity differences which result is slight bit of moisture on the system. Usually this alone is not an issue, but it's best to allow the system/parts proper time to change temps before you go running the machine.

I seen this happen sometime. Like you transporting something in your vehicle and it's been in the trunk long enough to get cold, then bringing it inside where it's warm and turning the component on shortly after without proper temperature transition and the hardware fries.

If you seen my wire management post in the post your excel- wire management you would no that loose wiring is not an issue.. The mod's to the wiring where not the issue, 6 wires in total 2 for power button 2 for each LED all where working..

No exposed wire's.

The problem well to cut a long story short a 15 month old was playing with the back of the PC in transit from drop off to there home approx 1.6KM/1 Mile flicked the 220V to 110V child plug's it in flicks master power switch (rear of PSU) instant poof...

All other components seam fine at this stage can't test GPU (GTS250) as the only spear PSU does not have the Juice or connectors..

Now Do I risk testing In one of my PC's that has enough Juice?

other PC spec's

Mobo: Asus M2N MX+
CPU: Athlon X64 5000+
VID: GTS250 (XFX) do i pull this to test the new GTS250
RAM: 2G DDR2 800Mhz Kingston
PSU: 450W generic (sticker is that old ya can't read it)

or

Mobo: Gigabyta GA-870A-UD3
CPU: PIIx4 955BE
VID: HD3870
RAM: 2G Corsair DDR3 1600 XMS3
PSU: CoolerMaster 550W real power pro

or

TEST in my main rig..

VERY EXPENSIVE IRREPLACEABLE IMO DUE TO COST

850W CM Real Power Pro..

[Bad_Motha]

That's sad to hear. I would think a power supply such as that would have a cut-off sensor. I've used plenty of power supplies that have the 110/220 switch on the back and switching to 220 shouldn't do anything except refuse to power on at all when switched to that. Or at least power on, but not boot up. Most power supplies have a fail-safe inside for such things like this issue. Sad to hear about your XMAS KA'BOOM. I know you know what you're doing so yea I really didn't think it was anything you did as far as the build itself goes.

[borg_7_of_9]

That's sad to hear. I would think a power supply such as that would have a cut-off sensor. I've used plenty of power supplies that have the 110/220 switch on the back and switching to 220 shouldn't do anything except refuse to power on at all when switched to that. Or at least power on, but not boot up. Most power supplies have a fail-safe inside for such things like this issue. Sad to hear about your XMAS KA'BOOM. I know you know what you're doing so yea I really didn't think it was anything you did as far as the build itself goes.

May not be so bad is the USA going from 110V to 240 but in OZ (Australia) going from 240 to 110V on the switch is bad lol..

At least at this stage it only look's like a cooked PSU..

[Bad_Motha]

LOL ya I forgot u live in AUS
Well if you get away with just a bad PSU, I call that lucky.

[borg_7_of_9]

Me too cheers n' marry X-mass n' happy new year..