Surf's up! Watercooling Basics

[rotNdude]

Water Cooling Basics

What is water cooling? Water cooling is, very simply, using water to cool the components in your computer.

Why should I use water cooling? There are several reasons to use water. One is to make a very quiet computer system. Another is to reduce component temperatures, especially the CPU and GPU. It can reduce load temperatures to allow better overclocking results. The 3rd reason, it looks cool. The 4th reason, bragging rights "Hey, I have water cooling!".

What does water cooling require? Well, most obviously, water! However, the system also requires some type of pump, radiator and the cooling blocks for the components you want to cool.

So how much does a water cooling system cost? Entry level kits can start as low as $100 and custom solutions (i.e., you pick out all the parts separately) can run well into the $300 range.

So can I just buy any water cooling system? NO! Many water cooling systems that are sold as kits are no better than good air cooling systems. The pumps, tubing and blocks are generally inferior. However, if you are not overclocking and want a very quiet system, then a kit may be your ticket. Look below for recommended kits for both overclockers and non-overclockers.

This /\ /\ is really where we need you forum members to post your thoughts about water cooling kits that you have and to provide everyone with your experiences! All the OC forums say, "DO NOT BUY A KIT!". We really need to know so we can add to the Recommended Kits list below!

What does it mean when they say loop? The water cooling system is designed to circulate water through the cooling components. The loop is the path that the water takes though the tubing and components. A typical loop is set up to circulate
Pump ---> radiator ---> CPU ---> GPU ---> Reservoir ---> Pump.

This is a pretty nice site that gives you a look at the Loop (http://www.extreme.outervision.com/flowdesigner.jsp) <--- Just select the components and it will give you a visual.

Then what should I look for? Well, here are my recommendations if you are an overclocker. You should always go with flexible tubing that is no less than ½” ID (Inside Diameter) and ¾”OD (Outside Diameter). This type of tubing allows very good water flow and resists kinks. Also, the radiator should be a dual-pass to allow for sufficient air flow to dissipate heat. The minimum fan size should also be 120mm. Also make sure all the metal components are made out of copper. If you mix copper and aluminum, then you will need to add an anti-corrosion fluid in your water to prevent galvanic corrosion.

Alright, I don’t want a kit, but how do I mount all these components in my case? Sometimes you need to mount the pump and radiator outside of the case. Although this is not ideal, it may be the only way. Just make sure that the way you do this is conducive to how you like to game (e.g., do you go to LAN parties?). If you can’t get all the components in your case, you may need to do some engineering and machining. ;) Look at the various components and then start engineering how the various components may fit, or not, in your case. Take measurements of the components and pay attention to how the components may need to be oriented for their water ports. This is where you want to take your time and use your imagination, since you don't want to buy all these water components only to find out it isn't going to work or look good! I've seen radiators mounted on the back, front, top, bottom, sides and even outside of cases. Just use your imagination and take into consideration what works best for your situation. There are very good sites that discuss water cooling and have some great photo galleries that may spawn your imagination: XS (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=34877) EOC (http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=95998)

In-Depth Component Discussion

Water
This is probably one of the most frequently discussed topics about water cooling. Most people will just use a 90% distilled water and 10% anti-freeze/anti-corrosion mixture. Others will swear by using pre-mixed solutions purchased from water cooling sites (that's what I did). Quite frankly, it depends on how much money you can afford to spend. A typical cooling loop will take about 16 ounces of fluid, but it really depends on how large the ID of the tubing is, how long the tubing runs are and how much water each of the other components hold. If you have solid-colored tubing, you won't need to worry about the color of the water. If you have clear tubing, then you can either purchase the pre-mixed off the web in your color of choice, or get dye, or purchase the anti-freeze/anti-corrosion solution of choice. Each automotive manufacturer has certain colors.

Fittings
Before we get into the discussion about the individual components, we need to look at fittings. Keep in mind that these are usually barbs or quick-connects. If you want to keep a balanced system without a bunch of nasty (and flow restricting) adapters, you need to pay special attention to the type and sizes of fittings on all of the components. You want to make sure all the fittings are the same. This will determine the inside diameter (ID) of tubing you need.

Pumps
This is the water mover in your system. There are many variables to look at when selecting a pump. All pumps have one inlet port and one discharge port. It is important to note which is which when designing your loop, but we'll discuss that later.

The voltage can be AC or DC. If it AC and you want to start and stop the pump automatically when you turn on the computer, then you will need something like this: Relay (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12133/ex-pmp-110/Danger_Den_AC_110V_and_220V_Pump_Relay_Switch_Kit_-_PUM-A200.html). With a DC pump, you can raise and lower the voltage to adjust the flow, if desired. Always look at the rated wattage and current if you are getting a DC pump to make sure your PSU can handle it.

Other variables are Flow Rate and Head. The flow rate is generally rated in gallons/hour (gph), gallons/minute (gpm), liters/hour (lph), or liters/minute (lpm). The head is how high the pump can push fluid in a vertical tube. It is usually expressed in feet or meters/centimeters. Head is important to know when deciding how much tubing you will have and how high the water has to be pumped. The higher the numbers for Flow Rate and Head, the more powerful the pump.

Also, keep in mind that the pump will actually generate heat as it propels the water. I am not going to go into a lot of detail on this subject, but just suffice it to say that some of the heat in your loop comes from the pump itself. That is why most people put the radiator as the first component off the discharge port of the pump.

Another variable is Pressure. This is normally expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or millibars (mbar). What you will normally see is a chart like this for a well documented pump: Chart (http://www.swiftnets.com/assets/images/products/MCP655-800X500.gif) Notice how the pressure (mbar in this case) decreases as flow rate increases (l/h in this case). Simply speaking, if you have water blocks or a radiator that restrict flow, the pressure in your water loop will increase. The flip side of this, is that flow decreases as pressure increases.

In general, you need to make sure you have a balanced system (tubing and fittings that match the pump's). You can achieve good results with a low-flow pump and smaller tubing if you are not an extreme overclocker. If you are an overclocker, you should look for what was recommended above.

Radiators
The radiator is what the water passes through to dissipate the heat that it has absorbed from the cooling blocks. Radiators come in all shapes and sizes, depending on how creative you want to be. What a radiator basically does is channel the water through passages (usually with fins) that are exposed to ambient air. The more surface area the passages have, the better it will cool the water. If you have ever looked at the front of a car, you know what a radiator is, right? All radiators have at least two ports on them, an inlet and an outlet. On most radiators, there is really no distinction between the two.

So what are the different types of radiators? Well, there are heater cores (these are used in automobiles for heating the cabin), radiators designed and built specifically for water cooling PCs, and custom radiators. Here is a custom radiator ;) Custom (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=463676&postcount=38) The radiators we'll focus on here will be the heater cores and PC-specific. First, if you want to do passive water (i.e., no fans on the radiator), you want maximum surface area and high flow rates. Maximum surface area will be achieved with what are called dual-pass radiators and triple, or larger, sizes. Dual-pass simply means that all of the water has to pass in from one port all the way to the other end of the radiator, then back to the other end of the radiator and out the other port. There are also single and dual radiators: Single (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCR120-qp.asp) Double (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCR220-QP.asp) Triple (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCR320-QP.asp) Notice that these are designed specifically for PC water cooling, whereas this is a heater core: Single (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=47&cat=14&page=1) Double (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=48&cat=14&page=1)

Tubing
There are various kinds of tubing. They can be made from different materials, which affects how flexible they are and what the tubing actually looks like. They come in different sizes for inside diameter (ID) and outside diameter (OD) which, as mentioned earlier, is important to for matching your component fitting and also kink resistance. What you purchase is your personal preference and what kind of budget you have, be it clear, opague, precolored or copper ;). Just remember that there are different properties for the clear and opaque tubing to resist staining from coolants and dyes, so once you've filled the system, that tubing may take on the color of the coolant. If you want to change the coolant color, you may have an off-colored setup once filled again or may have to change the tubing. Also, remember the resistance to kinking.

Reservoirs
A reservoir is used to ensure your cooling loop does not let air into your cooling loop by running short on water after you have filled it and ran for an extended period of time. The loop can lose water through evaporation or permeation through the tubing or leaks :(. A reservoir also provides the means for bleeding (discussed below) the air out of the loop. With that said, there are two types of reservoirs: Tank (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=51&cat=27&page=1) T-line (http://i2.tinypic.com/vicink.jpg) Acrylic reservoirs have a tendency to potentially have/develop leaks at the glued seams if not manufactured with quality craftmanship!

Fans
Well as discussed earlier, if you want a truly passive and extremely quiet system, you may not want any fans on the radiator. If so, keep in mind that you may not get the kind of temps that you would with fans. I have seen people submerge the radiator in a bucket/pan and put a little ice in it periodically to keep it cool. Just be careful with condensation that may occur if the loop water gets too cold. :(

If you go with fans, those heater cores and PC-specific radiators take 120mm fans. I personally wouldn't go for anything less.

CPU Blocks
This is what replaces the stock or after-market heatsink/fan assembly on the CPU. As mentioned before, it should have the heatsink portion made out of copper. Remember to check the type of fittings available and ensure it will fit on your particular CPU's socket type.

GPU Blocks
Just like the CPU block, the GPU block replaces the stock or after-market HSF on the video card. However, the HSF on the video card may also be cooling the Video RAM (VRAM). There are water blocks that are "full" blocks that cool both the GPU and VRAM, but these normally tend to restrict your cooling loop flow. If you buy a GPU-only block, then you should buy what are cooling VRAM-sinks (they may also be called BGA RAM coolers). VRAM (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mc14.asp) Once again, remember to check the type of fittings available and ensure it will fit on your particular GPU. You also need to be careful about the size of the water block if you are going to be doing SLI.

Clamps
Although some people don't use clamps because they have used undersized ID tubing, heated it up, and put it on the barb while still warm, I do not recommend running your loop naked (without clamps). It may look cleaner, but it is an accident waiting to happen, as in Surf's UP. There are at least three ways to clamp your tubing. Zip (http://www.9thtee.com/zipties.htm) Plastic (http://www.cooltechnica.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Clamp) Metal Worms (http://www.crazypc.com/items/9340.html) I prefer metal worms. If you have quick-connect fittings, then no clamps are necessary as these are self-sealing. Quick-Connect (http://cie-inc.com/Manufacturers/Safe_Water_Technologies/catalog/quick_connect/drink-pg7.htm)

[rotNdude]

How Do I Put It All Together?

Well, you've selected all your components, double checked to make sure all your fittings are the same (Right?) and measured your case to make sure you have the real estate necessary (Right?), now it's time to do the precleaning of the radiator and the engineering and machining.

Precleaning the Rad
It is always a good idea to clean the radiator before you put it in your system. Lay it on it's back (fittings up) and pour distilled water in it until it's about half full. Shake it a little to work the loose contaminants into the water. Do this again. Now lay the radiator on its back (fitting up) and fill it with white vinegar. Let it sit for about 8-12 hours and then empty it. Once empty, repeat with the distilled water an then vinegar again. Do this a total of 4 times, or until the vinegar comes out clear. Once the vinegar comes out clear, then flush out with distilled water (pour it in and drain it out) several times. This will ensure that no crap is in the radiator that could possibly clog your components or contaminate your liquid in the loop. Some people just use a water faucet and force tap water through the radiator to clean it, but keep in mind that tap water may have metals/chemicals/particulates that can contaminate the loop.

Mounting the Pump and Rad
I'll go through how I set my system up as reference. Parts (http://tinypic.com/iz7uvo.jpg) First I put the radiator and pump where I had intended them to go (radiator on top and pump on the bottom). Since I wanted the tubes to be vertical from the discharge of the pump to the radiator port, I used a string with a washer on the end to get my plumb line. I then marked the holes for mounting the pump on the bottom panel, drilled the holes, and mounted the pump. Notice that there is an isolation pad (foam) under the pump and there are also rubber washers on the screws. Pump (http://tinypic.com/iz9ceg.jpg). The pad and washers reduce the amount of vibration and subsequent noise that can be produced by the pump and resonated through the metal case. Also, the screws were rather long, so I cut them shorter with the dremel tool.

Now I laid the radiator back on the top of the case and made sure my plumb line was still plumb. Next I marked the outline of the cutout that I needed for the radiator opening. The radiator I chose fit very nicely between the upper support members of the case, so I centered the left-to-right measurement (as viewed from the front of the case). Since there is a flange around the edge of the radiator for mounting the fans and the radiator, the hole I cut is slightly smaller than the full dimension of the radiator. Rad (http://tinypic.com/iz9vd4.jpg) Notice that the fans will be pulling air through the rad and not pushing air through it. That is always a big debate topic on the water forums! Next the dremel tool for cutting the hole and the drill for the radiator mounting holes. Hole (http://tinypic.com/iz9d2r.jpg)

Here's a video from DD on how they made the fan/rad hole Fan Hole (http://dangerden.com/e107_plugins/content/instructions/movies/fanhole.wmv)

Next I used a hole saw with my drill for the fill-port when I was satisfied with its location and then mounted the rad and fill-port. Mount (http://tinypic.com/j0fxtw.jpg) I put a little strip of foam rubber weatherstripping around the top of the rad (between it and the case) to prevent possible vibration from the 2 fans, purchased some Universal Door Edge Protector at a local auto store to dress up the edges of the rad hole, and used zip ties to secure the radiator to the top of the case (this was a 2 person job). Many people use threaded rod to mount the rad by running the rod all the way through the radiator and then double nutting on both sides. Others use self-tapping screws. Just be careful to not puncture the water passages in the radiator innards!

Mounting the CPU Block
This was a very easy thing to do on my Intel Socket 775 motherboard. Since I was transferring the guts of my old system to the new system, the motherboard was already out. Four screws go though the back of the motherboard, are then nutted on the front, and the block slid right on the bolts with a very nice fit. Block (http://i2.tinypic.com/vijj0k.jpg) BTW, I used AS5.

Here's a video from DD on how they mounted their CPU/GPU block and fan/rad Mounting (http://dangerden.com/e107_plugins/content/instructions/movies/install_1.wmv)

Running the tubing
Now that you have all the components in place, it's time to run the tubing. I purchased the tubing in one 15' length (way too much, +/-8' will normally do). So I took the roll and put one end of the tube on the component's barb and then straightened the coil so I could get a feel for how long the tube should be. Using a small marker, I then made a mark on the tube at a length a little longer than needed and cut it off the roll. This works good for cutting the tubing (it's the black tool). Cutter (http://i2.tinypic.com/vik605.jpg) Although, a utility knife, heavy duty scissors or even a sharp pocket knife will work. Once you have the tube cut to a non-exact length, then you can keeping cutting a little off at a time until it is exactly how you want it. Starting (http://tinypic.com/j0fvhl.jpg) Done (http://tinypic.com/j5i05s.jpg)

Here's a video from DD on how they ran the tubing Running the tubing (http://dangerden.com/e107_plugins/content/instructions/movies/install_2.wmv)

Filling and Bleeding the Loop
It's very important to not run your pump dry (i.e., without water). What this means is when you're initially filling your loop, you will want to put enough solution in to fill the reservoir or T-line and then "bump" the pump (on and then quickly off). Since you also will be checking for leaks and probably don't want your valuable computer components turned on at this point, unplug your PSU from all the components in your system. Make sure the PSU is unplugged from the AC power and the rocker switch on the PSU is off. On the 20/24 pin PSU to mobo cable, jumper the pin that has the green wire and any pin that has a black wire on the connector together with a paper clip. Now plug the PSU into the AC power. Plug your pump, assuming it's DC, into a 12V molex cable on the PSU. If it's an AC pump and you're using a relay kit, plug the relay kit board into the 12V molex on the PSU. You can now "bump" the pump by using the on-off rocker switch on the PSU.

Filling the system is just a matter of continuing to add fluid to the loop and "bumping" the pump. You'll keep doing this until the loop is completely full of water. Filling (http://tinypic.com/j5i32u.jpg) Notice that I was using a small inexpensive funnel to do this. A syringe is often recommended since it can control the amount of water you are trying to put in the system. Here is another nice filling video Filling (http://dangerden.com/e107_plugins/content/instructions/movies/water_fill.wmv) Fill syringe (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=214&cat=29&page=1)

Bleeding the system is all about getting the air out of the loop after the loop is filled. If you have a reservoir, this will go quicker than having a T-line. If you hear the pump making a gushing sound or it seems noisy, you will know you don't have all of the air bled out of the loop. I like to run the system for at least 24 hours to let it bleed (Ah, the Beatles!) and check for leaks. <--- Very important! Bleeding (http://tinypic.com/j5i4i0.jpg) Notice the bubbles still in the loop.

I have leaks! If this is the first time you're filling the loop and you used the tip of jumping the PSU, then don't worry. Check to make sure the barbs are screwed tightly into the component and tighten the clamp on the barb. If this is a quick-connect system, make sure the fitting is screwed tightly into the component, make sure the tube has been cut squarely and that the tube is inserted completely into the fitting.

Maintenance
Once you've lived with your water cooling for a while, you will need to occasionally empty the loop, clean the components, and refill the system. Is this necessary? Yes! This is probably one of the major drawbacks to water cooling other than LEAKS. How often you do this depends on how well you mixed the solution or how good the water solution is that you purchased. You'll know when it's time to do the maintenance when your temperatures start rising, or little green things start oozing out of your loop, or your pump starts sounding like a Honda Civic on NOS with Flow Master non-mufflers! ;) Draining your system depends on what components you have and how they are mounted. With the system I built, I take the T-line tube off the fill port and put it in a bucket. Other people that have tank reservoirs leave enough tubing to pull the reservoir out of the system and put it in a bucket. Other just pull all the electronic components out of the case, disconnect one of the lower hose fittings and just let it drain in the bathtub. It just depends on your ingenuity. I've always liked this idea and thought about doing it myself. Y-fitting in return line (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/files/images/reservoirs/fillport_res/fill_system.jpg)

Here's a video from DD on how they disassembled the system Take your system apart (http://dangerden.com/e107_plugins/content/instructions/movies/dissa_ssemble.wmv)

If you have any questions or would like to see things added to this thread, please post them! Also, please post pics of your water cooling system!

[rotNdude]

Recommended Components (I really want your recommendations before I start totally populating this myself. Also, since I'm from the US, I would like to include some recommended components from other countries.)

Pumps
MCP655 (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp655.asp) DD-D5 (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=175&cat=23&page=1) <--- These are the same pumps made by Laing

Radiators/Heater Cores
Single Heater Core w/ fittings (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=47&cat=14&page=1)
Double Heater Core w/ fittings (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=48&cat=14&page=1)
DD Black Ice Series Radiators (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/home.php?cat=72)
Swiftech Single Rad (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCR120-QP.asp)
Swiftech Double Rad (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCR220-QP.asp)
Swiftech Triple Rad (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCR320-QP.asp)
Radiator Mounting Box (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCB-120-R2.asp)
Radiator Mounting Kit (http://www.crazypc.com/items/93421.html) <--- you can probably find this at a local HW store

Tubing (you normally order this by the foot)
Tygon (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=172&cat=33&page=1) <--- The best!
Black Tygon (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=7510&product%5Fid=8701) <--- Order in 10 foot lengths
ClearFlex (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=61&cat=33&page=1) <--- The next best!

Reservoirs
T-Line (http://www.crazypc.com/items/93440.html) <--- This is all it takes to make a T-line (with a little tube and a stopper)

Fans
Yate Loon (http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120mm-Case-Fan-D12SL-12-pr-3009.html) <--- Quiet, low air flow

CPU Blocks
Storm (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/STORM.asp) <---discontinued
Apogee (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/apogee.asp)
ApogeeGT (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/APOGEEGT.asp) <---good for quad-core
TDX (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/home.php?cat=21)
Fuzion (http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=182) <---good for quad-core


GPU Blocks
Maze4 (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=150&cat=18&page=1)

Fluids and Additives (although these aren't needed if you use distilled water and anti-freeze/corrosion/algicide)
Fluid XP+ (http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-liq-11.html) <--- low-flow or older systems
Fluid XP+ (http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-liq-14.html) <--- high-flow systems
PrimoChill ICE (http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-liq-07.html)
Zerex (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=77&cat=54&page=1)
UV Dye (http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=item&id=972&prevaction=category&previd=2&prevstart=0)

Other Components To Consider
(anybody with experience with Flow meters/indicators or temp sensors?)

Recommended Kits
(Please post your experience with kits, as most say they are not good! I woud like to think otherwise!)
H2O-220 Apex "Ultra" (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-220-APEX.asp)
Kingwin Aquastar AS-3000 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835124007) <--- recommended by Slufa111
Corsair Cool (http://www.corsair.com/corsair/COOL_water.html) <--- recommended by _-=1ZACH1=-_
Cooler Master AQUAGATE Mini R80 - RL-MUA-E8U1 (http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/Products.aspx?pid=1107) <--- recommended by FreeAgent

Recommended Sites to Buy From
Compliments of XS (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=67179)
Compliments of EOC (http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=81172)

Member's pictures:

Slufa111's setup (http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4625117&postcount=118)
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/3...ture0392zp.jpg
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8...ture0414eq.jpg

_-=1ZACH1=-_'s setup (http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4626566&postcount=131)
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...h/100_0241.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...h/100_0243.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...h/100_0249.jpg

Cold_Turkey_14's setup (http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/member.php?u=195672)
WC parts (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y273/FuzzyTomatoHole/Equipment1.jpg)
CPU block (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y273/FuzzyTomatoHole/Waterblock.jpg)
CPU WC (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y273/FuzzyTomatoHole/CPUblock.jpg)
Fillport cutout (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y273/FuzzyTomatoHole/FillpotPlasticHole.jpg)
Fillport (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y273/FuzzyTomatoHole/Fillport.jpg)
Complete system (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y273/FuzzyTomatoHole/CompleteWC.jpg)
Another shot for the heck of it (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y273/FuzzyTomatoHole/CompleteWCII.jpg)

Jigoku's setup (http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5576585&postcount=279)
http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/1949/pa170005tn2.jpg

shadowarrior33's setup (http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5883273&postcount=309)
Inside the case (http://i16.tinypic.com/4dpmbtw.jpg)
another one inside the case (http://i10.tinypic.com/2eodvrs.jpg)
and the look in the room (http://i1.tinypic.com/2i9m2c7.jpg)

L.o.D.'s setup (http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7365904&postcount=354)
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/4232/0000119go8.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/7122/0000123gs5.jpg

DARKNIGHT's setup (http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13599075&postcount=387)
http://img213.imageshack.us/i/dsc00290g.jpg/
http://img709.imageshack.us/i/dsc00311m.jpg/
http://img175.imageshack.us/i/dsc00301y.jpg/
http://img411.imageshack.us/i/dsc00308y.jpg/
http://img294.imageshack.us/i/dsc00303p.jpg/
http://img145.imageshack.us/i/dsc00294al.jpg/
http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/1043/dsc00297l.jpg
updated pics
http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/6813/pict0080x.jpg
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/1662/pict0081yi.jpg
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/3899/pict0082q.jpg
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/9561/pict0084k.jpg


borg_7_of_9's setup (http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showpost.php?p=23666993&postcount=400)
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...8cfd9-orig.jpg
Small update to my water cooling, 2 new rad's 360mm and a 120mm, some new 1/2" ID hose white and black poly
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u135/MzBeHavn_bigtime/Snapbucket/7AFD93A6-orig.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u135/MzBeHavn_bigtime/Snapbucket/6A463BA8-orig.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u135/MzBeHavn_bigtime/Snapbucket/2C3C8338-orig.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u135/MzBeHavn_bigtime/Snapbucket/E46B2B11-orig.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u135/MzBeHavn_bigtime/Snapbucket/47FD32D0-orig.jpg

cr1515's setup (http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25408676&postcount=405)
http://tiny.cc/1jcmd
http://tiny.cc/1jhdw
http://tiny.cc/776gg
http://tiny.cc/q3e62
http://tiny.cc/nld7q

headcasephil's setup (http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=427778)
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h468/headcasephil/079.jpg

[picartman]

bout damn time u made one! ;)
post ur WC setup!

show off...

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by picartman
bout damn time u made one! ;)
post ur WC setup!

show off...

LOL! I might post them pics again, but this is a maybe stinky so, I'll have others post their's first.

[rotNdude]

Alright, I'll be the first:

Here's why you do water
Ambient temps at 25C: Intel P4 660 (Stock 3.6GHz)
Stock HSF and at stock speeds it ran 48C idle and 64C load
Installed XP-90C and temps went down to 36C idle and 48C load
OC'ing and temps with XP-90C went to 43C idle and 57C load
Installed water and temps went to 33C idle and 41C load
OC’ing with water 35-36C idle and 45-47C load

Here's how you do it
Water parts:

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/STORM.asp
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp655.asp
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=2&cat=5&page=1
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=172&cat=33&page=1
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=56&cat=34&page=1
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/pa12ulqu.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-tub-14.html

Pictures to follow:
Parts:
http://tinypic.com/iz7uvo.jpg
http://tinypic.com/iz99q8.jpg

Engineering:
http://tinypic.com/iz9ceg.jpg
http://tinypic.com/iz9d2r.jpg
http://tinypic.com/iz9vd4.jpg
http://tinypic.com/j0fvhl.jpg
http://tinypic.com/j0fxtw.jpg
http://tinypic.com/j5i05s.jpg

Filling:
http://tinypic.com/j5i32u.jpg
http://tinypic.com/j5i4i0.jpg

Fire it up:
http://tinypic.com/j77qj7.jpg
http://tinypic.com/j6judc.jpg

Put some light on the subject:
http://tinypic.com/j7f9g7.jpg
http://tinypic.com/j77rbp.jpg
http://i1.tinypic.com/oh5sfs.jpg

[Suede]

What case is that please?

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Suede
What casse is that please?

Lian Li PC-75B. I chose it because it has 2 PSU bays at the top. It is pricy though, as most high-end Lian Li's are.

[Suede]

That's a really nice case. Well done.

[The Package]

trying to score every sticky you can eh?

[picartman]

yea, he calls them, the super stinkys :|

[sirplayalot]

Lian-Li is the best!

I have the Lian-Li Warrior! Best case I ever owned.

[Bill Cutting]

hey rotN......

http://i2.tinypic.com/vicshe.jpg

Another thing, if I bought this pump:
http://xoxide.com/swiftech-mcp655.html

Should I buy the 1/2'' ID and the 3/4'' OD or the 3/8'' IF 5/8'' OD tubing?

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Bill Cutting
hey rotN......

http://i2.tinypic.com/vicshe.jpg

Another thing, if I bought this pump:
http://xoxide.com/swiftech-mcp655.html

Should I buy the 1/2'' ID and the 3/4'' OD or the 3/8'' IF 5/8'' OD tubing?

Those things are black zip ties to hold the rad in place.

I would personally get the 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD.

[rotNdude]

Alright, time for a peer review. Thoughts, recommendations, anything I've missed?

[Rafiq_kassam1]

Originally posted by rotNdude
Alright, I'll be the first:

i'll be the second soon. :)

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Rafiq_kassam1
i'll be the second soon. :)

Hey mate, where is that video that I think you posted about filling the system, I'd like to put that in here! I can't find it!

I'm waiting for your pics.

[Rafiq_kassam1]

filling the system? Can you explane more I am not remembering.

Explane mewhat it was exactlly, then if I rememebr i'll go find it.

[-Withnail-]

This thread is awesome, well done dude. Even though I could never be bothered to actually buy a water cooling system

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Rafiq_kassam1
filling the system? Can you explane more I am not remembering.

Explane mewhat it was exactlly, then if I rememebr i'll go find it.

Sorry, it was USB! I found it.

http://dangerden.com/e107_plugins/content/instructions/movies/water_fill.wmv

[Rafiq_kassam1]

ow aight coo, because i was like wtf, lol.

btw: teh link doesn't work.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Rafiq_kassam1
ow aight coo, because i was like wtf, lol.

btw: <font color=yellow>the</font> link doesn't work.

It should now.

[Rafiq_kassam1]

Thta's a neat video. Would be very useful indeed.

[Aaron_K II]

<3 rotNdude

I VOTE STICKY!

[start14212]

Originally posted by Aaron_K II
<3 rotNdude

I VOTE STICKY!

[rotNdude]

C'mon you guys, I surely haven't got everything right. Please tell me where I missed something, am too biased, or give me some recommended components. I have my own opinions about components, but I want the rec's to come from others.

Cheers!

[T Rush]

ok...I sailed almost half way though it...I really liked how it starts off just slowly pushing off, basic as it can be...than then just drop by drop, keeps filling your brain more and more...it seems to have a good flow...gets alittle deep

[Bill Cutting]

Originally posted by rotNdude
Those things are black zip ties to hold the rad in place.

I would personally get the 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD.

Lol, no not the ties, I mean that black stuff that you lined the cut out rectangle with. Would I have to buy a relay if I bought that pump?

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Bill Cutting
Lol, no not the ties, I mean that black stuff that you lined the cut out rectangle with.

It's this stuff:

Universal Door Edge Protector (http://www.customautotrim.com/products/moldings/door.htm)

I bought the U-shaped type at a local auto parts store.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by T Rush
ok...I sailed almost half way though it...I really liked how it starts off just slowly pushing off, basic as it can be...than then just drop by drop, keeps filling your brain more and more...it seems to have a good flow...gets alittle deep

So give me a critique? Where do I need to dumb-down or dumb-up?

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Bill Cutting
Would I have to buy a relay if I bought that pump?

If you buy a DC pump, like this:

MCP655 (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp655.asp) you won't need a relay to run that pump. You only need a relay for an AC pump or a DC pump that draws alot of power that your PC power supply can't handle on its own.

[Slufa111]

Hows this kit?

http://xoxide.com/kingwin-aquastar-as-3000.html

I am looking for something not too expensive but not cheap where itll leak and ill cry because my system is broken lol

What if you want to carry your water cooling system? Do you drain it first?

[Akhen]

Wow, thats one of the most complete guides I have ever seen, you've covered almost everything I can think of.
++

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Slufa111
Hows this kit?

http://xoxide.com/kingwin-aquastar-as-3000.html

I am looking for something not too expensive but not cheap where itll leak and ill cry because my system is broken lol

What if you want to carry your water cooling system? Do you drain it first?

What is your purpose for this? Silence or better temps? If better temps, NOT! If silence, maybe. Notice it has an 80mm fan for cooling everything (if you read my stinky, I recommend nothing less than 120mm). Also, if you are transporting this to LAN parties, then this is NOT the right "kit" for you. What is your budget?

[Slufa111]

I was considering watercooling but am not totally sure, 150 bucks is what I am wiling to spend.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Slufa111
I was considering watercooling but am not totally sure, 150 bucks is what I am wiling to spend.

Let me think about it overnight. I'm going to hit the hay now. :)

[Slufa111]

ok dokie:)

You have a good easter:)

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Slufa111
ok dokie:)

You have a good easter:)

Ditto mate! Happy Easter!

[USB is FUNFORME]

Nice rotN! I'm desperately to try and find a critique to make, but you've gone ahead and made it rather difficult! :p

I'll post mine when I order it - it MAY be a few weeks late. Some things happened [that I'd rather not talk about] that signifigantly lowered my available funds. :rolleyes:

Definitely still coming soon though.

Oh wait: you could put links to good water cooling websites / forums.

Like dangerden, water-cooling.net, etc.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by USB is FUNFORME
Nice rotN! I'm desperately to try and find a critique to make, but you've gone ahead and made it rather difficult! :p

I'll post mine when I order it - it MAY be a few weeks late. Some things happened [that I'd rather not talk about] that signifigantly lowered my available funds. :rolleyes:

Definitely still coming soon though.

Oh wait: you could put links to good water cooling websites / forums.

Like dangerden, water-cooling.net, etc.

Thanks mate! Yeah, I thought about the web sites for ordering. I was kinda holding onto that until we started putting recommended parts in the list. But, you may be right. We may need sites for US, CA, UK, BE, SI, and others. Hmm, let's get other's opinions on this one. Goodnight and Happy Easter!

[marie pavie]

Originally posted by USB is FUNFORME
Nice rotN! I'm desperately to try and find a critique to make, but you've gone ahead and made it rather difficult! :p
I like your writing! Don't know anything about WC, but thought that your posts make it look fun & easy. Define 'ID' of tubing for those new kids.

[Chunky v3.1]

looks alright, ill post pics of mine later.

[Bill Cutting]

Originally posted by rotNdude
What is your purpose for this? Silence or better temps? If better temps, NOT! If silence, maybe. Notice it has an 80mm fan for cooling everything (if you read my stinky, I recommend nothing less than 120mm). Also, if you are transporting this to LAN parties, then this is NOT the right "kit" for you.

Exactly what he said. I think that xoxide has a horrible problem with making bad products sound good. But oh well, they're just trying to sell products like every other business in the world. Do some research on anything you see on that site before you buy it, I've had bad PSU experiences with them. But on the other hand, I've also bought a lot of very fine computer products from them. So just be careful and make sure to do your homework.

[Quintox]

5 stars for awesomeness.

Do you type all this stuff up or just copy/paste some? I don't care, just curious, b/c all that typing would take a while. :)

[Rhondo H. Slade]

Originally posted by marie pavie
Define 'ID' of tubing for those new kids.
ID=Inner Diameter
OD=Outer Diameter

Steve

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by BoNdJaMeSbOnD
5 stars for awesomeness.

Do you type all this stuff up or just copy/paste some? I don't care, just curious, b/c all that typing would take a while. :)

Actually, I typed most of it in a Word document and then copy and paste.

[Slufa111]

Originally posted by rotNdude
Actually, I typed most of it in a Word document and then copy and paste.

So RotNDude, what did you think while sleeping?

Let me think about it overnight. I'm going to hit the hay now.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Slufa111
So RotNDude, what did you think while sleeping?

This is very much an entry level kit. It only has 1/8" tubing and will not do any better than good air coolers. You still haven't answered my question about what your goal is. If it is to just have a water system without spending a lot of money, then this kit isn't too bad.

http://www.cluboverclocker.com/reviews/super_cooling/kingwin/AquaStar/page2.htm
http://www.overclockers.com/articles1241/index.asp
http://www.maximumpc.com/2005/12/kingwin_aquasta.html

If you are going to be seriously overclocking, then no. You may want to read through some more reviews before buying it.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=%22Kingwin+AquaStar+AS-3000%22

[Slufa111]

Originally posted by rotNdude
This is very much an entry level kit. It only has 1/8" tubing and will not do any better than good air coolers. You still haven't answered my question about what your goal is. If it is to just have a water system without spending a lot of money, then this kit isn't too bad.

http://www.cluboverclocker.com/reviews/super_cooling/kingwin/AquaStar/page2.htm
http://www.overclockers.com/articles1241/index.asp
http://www.maximumpc.com/2005/12/kingwin_aquasta.html

If you are going to be seriously overclocking, then no. You may want to read through some more reviews before buying it.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=%22Kingwin+AquaStar+AS-3000%22

Well I have a AMD freezer 64 pro Idle 33C load 41C (after 8hrs of prime 95)

I would get it but would it be worth it?

Where would I put the huge size of 2 CD roms that comes with it? Set it up on top of my case and have tubing going through a PCI slot?

[Slufa111]

Wait does that kit fit a socket 939? I read in review it DOES.. but newegg.com spec sheet doesnt say anything about 939 compat

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Slufa111
Wait does that kit fit a socket 939? I read in review it DOES.. but newegg.com spec sheet doesnt say anything about 939 compat

Yes, it does fit 939:

Compatibility:
CPU Compatibility:
AMD:
Socket Athlon
Athlon XP
Socket A
Socket 462
Opteron
Athlon 64
Athlon 64 FX
Socket 754
Socket 939
Socket 940
Intel:
Pentium III
Pentium IV
LGA775
Socket 370
Socket 478
GPU Compatibility
nVIDIA:
All Series
ATI:
All Series

You still didn't answer my question? :confused:

[Slufa111]

Well I would be using it for both. I am overclocking my 3200+ 939 Venice 400mhz to 2.4ghz. My room is quiet warm since the guy came and fix the heater and my pc is just above the heater vent in my room so I get a nice big wif of warm air. My case is very very loud with the stock 120mm TT fans and I was hoping to having something passive with low temps.

[Slufa111]

I also see that this case doesnt come with distilled water? I buy that separte i am guessing?

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Slufa111
Well I would be using it for both. I am overclocking my 3200+ 939 Venice 400mhz to 2.4ghz. My room is quiet warm since the guy came and fix the heater and my pc is just above the heater vent in my room so I get a nice big wif of warm air. My case is very very loud with the stock 120mm TT fans and I was hoping to having something passive with low temps.

Originally posted by Slufa111
I also see that this case doesnt come with distilled water? I buy that separte i am guessing?

I would personally not get that kit. At a minimum, I would look at this, but you're going to have to save some money. :(

Swiftech H2O-120 Premium Water Cooling Kit (http://xoxide.com/swiftech-h2o-120-premium.html)

It has one of the best CPU blocks on the market.

[Slufa111]

I mean the kit i picked out the one (the cheaper one) that had everything all together would eliminate my fans which i want and still get better than heatsink temps. I am not looking for ultra -20C cooling here. Just decent for what I am doing.

What I like the most is the thing slides into my case (I doubt ill be able to fit it in there with my current case (TT Sviking but Ill try)

however I understand what your saying about quality but you got to look at it from both sides. Your not beginner with WC, I am..

[rotNdude]

Well, here's what you do then. You buy that kit, record your before and after temperatures and then report back so we can either put it in the Recommended Kit section, or I'll create a Not Recommended Kit section. ;)

As I have no experience with that kit, I can't honestly say.

[Slufa111]

Well I ordered it earlier this afternoon and I am really hoping it wasnt that bad of an investment. I might call Newegg.com ASAP tomorrow morning and cancel it (weird how it was at ship status on Easter:?

I might be happier with a new case thena WC system. I dunno what to do:(

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Slufa111
however I understand what your saying about quality but you got to look at it from both sides. Your not beginner with WC, I am..

I don't care if I have 20+ years experience with WC'ing, everybody's experience is appreciated. That's why I have in my post that I want to get everyone's opinion or experience with their particular kits. ;)

[Slufa111]

Originally posted by rotNdude
I don't care if I have 20+ years experience with WC'ing, everybody's experience is appreciated. That's why I have in my post that I want to get everyone's opinion or experience with their particular kits. ;)

Off the topic for a second. Have you ever cancelled an order before it was shipped however was on Status 5.

[picartman]

u cant srry

u could rma it

[Slufa111]

Originally posted by picartman
u cant srry

u could rma it

not even if I call them when they open tomorrow? Who ships products out on a Sunday? Therefore at 8am tomorrow they wouldnt have shipped it yet...

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Slufa111
not even if I call them when they open tomorrow? Who ships products out on a Sunday? Therefore at 8am tomorrow they wouldnt have shipped it yet...

If they have it packed, you may be charged a restocking fee.

[Slufa111]

Originally posted by rotNdude
If they have it packed, you may be charged a restocking fee.

Ah yes, the good ol' restocking fee:)

I can either get this WC kit

or get this

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811125468

I want the space. Now I have the TT Sviking and its so small and I would rather have more room then less room obvisously:)

However I think I could benefit from the cooling without the jet engine fans (literally very very loud)

Or both :)

[rotNdude]

I'd get that case and then get the better WC kit later.

[picartman]

Originally posted by rotNdude
I'd get that case and then get the better WC kit later.
qft

[picartman]

sent u a WC idea PM rotN

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by picartman
i got an idea for my WC setup, when i raise enough money, ill cool both of my pcs with one WC setup, tell me what u think,

we start at PC1 (MAIN) i make a regular WC setup, Radiator,pump, and CPU block, and tubing, (no tline)

now after the water exits from the cpu block i lead it out of my pc to another radiator on PC2 (BACKUP) then from that radiator goes the cooled water to the socket 748 cpu block, then sucked out to the pump, the from the pump the water goes to a triple fan radiator, then to a big resevoir tank back to my pump in PC1

what do u think the temps will be on that setup? and a little question, what are the most silent 120MM fans there are?


Since everybody needs to understand water cooling, I took the liberty of posting your PM. If you want me to delete it, let me know.

First, that is a very good way to take advantage of a high flow pump, such as this:

DD-D5 (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=175&cat=4&page=1)

A couple of issues. Which PSU are you going to power this from, PC1 or PC2? If you want it to stay on all the time, then you may want to buy a separate PSU or get an AC pump like this.

Eheim 1260 (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=142&cat=26&page=1)

It makes good sense to have:

PC1pump ---> PC1rad ---> PC1CPU ---> PC2rad ---> PC2CPU ---> Res ---> PC1pump

Nice idea and worth the cost of tubing. You just need to make sure you get one of those good pumps and no less than 1/2" ID tubing.

[picartman]

its fine with me, just that why dont u add a radiator between the PC1 pump and the reseviour

and yeah th pump would be AC or it would go to my backup comp (PC2)

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by picartman
its fine with me, just that why dont u add a radiator between the PC1 pump and the reseviour

I don't understand your question. Remember this is a loop so what I posted is a loop:

PC1pump (discharge) ---> PC1rad ---> PC1CPU ---> PC2rad ---> PC2CPU ---> Res ---> PC1pump (inlet)

[picartman]

Originally posted by rotNdude
I don't understand your question. Remember this is a loop so what I posted is a loop:

PC1pump (discharge) ---> PC1rad ---> PC1CPU ---> PC2rad ---> PC2CPU ---> Res --->radiator in between---> PC1pump (inlet)

[rotNdude]

You'd be better doing this:

PC1pump (discharge) ---> PC1rad ---> PC1CPU ---> PC2rad ---> PC2CPU ---> rad ---> Res ---> PC1pump (inlet)

Having a rad before your res/t-line is the best. You always want your res/t-line at the inlet of the pump.

[USB is FUNFORME]

Question:

Why are the DD-D5 and MCP655 pumps called different names? Does Swiftech make it? Does dangerden just rename theirs?

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by USB is FUNFORME
Question:

Why are the DD-D5 and MCP655 pumps called different names? Does Swiftech make it? Does dangerden just rename theirs?

They are the same pumps made by Laing. No difference, just sold by Swiftech and DD with different names.

Edit: And thanks USB, I added those 2 pumps as recommended, IMHO, with the note that they are the same!

[Radeon117X]

I'll probably get watercooling soon.

Soon being like 5 years or so. Lol. Nice thread :D

[picartman]

Originally posted by rotNdude
You'd be better doing this:

PC1pump (discharge) ---> PC1rad ---> PC1CPU ---> PC2rad ---> PC2CPU ---> rad ---> Res ---> PC1pump (inlet)

Having a rad before your res/t-line is the best. You always want your res/t-line at the inlet of the pump.

k thx for that rotN

[invisiblekorean]

rotNdude you might want to mention high flow vs. low flow systems because depending on what components you buy either choice can give great performance. Which also means that you don't have to have 1/2" tubing for the best performance if you use low flow blocks/pumps etc.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by invisiblekorean
rotNdude you might want to mention high flow vs. low flow systems because depending on what components you buy either choice can give great performance. Which also means that you don't have to have 1/2" tubing for the best performance if you use low flow blocks/pumps etc.

Thanks mate. I added a little bit at the end of the pumps section. Look OK?

[picartman]

what do u mean by the pushing air from the radiator part? like cant i have 4 fans all pushing air one way?

Originally posted by rotNdude
Thanks mate. I added a little bit at the end of the pumps section. Look OK?

i cant find the info.....

[rotNdude]

If you mount four fans on a double rad and they're all moving air in the same direction, then that is called a push-pull configuration. You can do that, but it's overkill.

Here's what I added:

In general, you need to make sure you have a balanced system (tubing and fittings that match the pump's). You can achieve good results with a low-flow pump and smaller tubing if you are not an extreme overclocker. If you are an overclocker, you should look for what was recommended above.

Post #1 at the bottom of the Pumps in white.

[picartman]

thx, so i would need a big tubin/high flow style pump?

[USB is FUNFORME]

Originally posted by Chunky v3.1
looks alright, ill post pics of mine later.

Considering he's perma-banned now, I think we can dismiss this. :p

[sptonjohn]

Bump!

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by picartman
thx, so i would need a big tubin/high flow style pump?

What are you trying to cool and are you an overclocker?

[Aaron_K II]

Originally posted by tonjohn
Bump!


*TAKES AIM AND SHOOTS AT THE BUMPER*

tonjhon: ERARHAHAHHAHHA

*HAH! GOT HIM IN THE LEG! that should slow him down.*


hey rotNdude i ordered that swifttek watercooling kit you linked me to instead of the dangerden.

I CANT WAIT.

[picartman]

Originally posted by rotNdude
What are you trying to cool and are you an overclocker?

cooling a +3800 OCing it to 2.8

[Aaron_K II]

Originally posted by picartman
cooling a +3800 OCing it to 2.8

well, for a 400mhz hop up realy watercooling isnt nessasary.

you can get good performance by getting a nice air cooled CPU cooler.

[picartman]

i also want a really quiet comp, and to tell u the truth, ima push my cpu as far as i can take it

[Assassinxkilla]

you rafiq and Rotndude should create one HUGE sticky for all there threads that should be stickied....

[picartman]

yeah, they called it a master stinky

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by picartman
yeah, they called it a master stinky

I started calling them stinkies. Seems I almost got someone in trouble with a Freudian slip thingy.

Back on topic. picartman, what is your most important item? Quiet system or extreme overclocks?

[Assassinxkilla]

Originally posted by rotNdude
I started calling them stinkies. Seems I almost got someone in trouble with a Freudian slip thingy.

Back on topic. picartman, what is your most important item? Quiet system or extreme overclocks?


quiet systems...

[picartman]

a little mix of both, i can handle a little bit of noise, but i also wannt push my cpu to the limit

[Assassinxkilla]

Originally posted by Assassinxkilla
quiet systems...

actually my system isnt very quite but i do like overclocking...so yeah a mix of both is good.

[picartman]

R U PICARTMAN?? NO! SO BUZZ OFF!!!





lol im just playin around :p

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Aaron_K II
*TAKES AIM AND SHOOTS AT THE BUMPER*

tonjhon: ERARHAHAHHAHHA

*HAH! GOT HIM IN THE LEG! that should slow him down.*


hey rotNdude i ordered that swifttek watercooling kit you linked me to instead of the dangerden.

I CANT WAIT.

LOL!

That swiftech kit is a nice setup. Make sure you keep a log record of before and after temps (both idle and load) and then post the pics! That's what we need to know!

[v@.Li.um]

Don't know if someone said it, but you forget to advise to not put the water directly into the computer :p

Nico job by the way :)

[picartman]

what do u mean by "not directly"?

[Aaron_K II]

lol

as in taking a hose, stick it in the top drive bay, and let the water flow.

[picartman]

woah woah what?? u mean turn on pump and simultaneously insert teh agua?

[Aaron_K II]

rofl.



i mean, turn your 1337 computer into an aquarium

[v@.Li.um]

Originally posted by picartman
what do u mean by "not directly"?

Don't you remember a thread (wich was linked here by somebody) from a modding forums where a guy was angry because he was "water cooling" his pc by flooding the computer's case with water?

[picartman]

O YEAH LOL i remember that, and another one with teh cooking oil :D

[picartman]

k i finaly got my WC setup installed and im in the process of airing it out so its covered in toliet paper ;) but damn i aranged the tubing so it looks frikin cool :D i had to install the radiator in the front :( looks lind of cool but meh i dunno, ill post a pic tomorrow,

temps before
around 50-65C

now its around 30C :):):):):)


ill OC it/ post pics later once im done airing it out

[Sandman666]

What would you guys suggest for both silence & cooling ? As in which water cooling setup?
The case I have is the Aspire X-plorer and I don't want to hear fans anymore. It's annoying.
You see, my tower is about 3 feet away from my bed so I need to quiet it down.

[Rhondo H. Slade]

Originally posted by Sandman666
...my tower is about 3 feet away from my bed so I need to quiet it down.
Turn off the machine before you go to bed?

Steve

[picartman]

Originally posted by Sandman666
What would you guys suggest for both silence & cooling ? As in which water cooling setup?
The case I have is the Aspire X-plorer and I don't want to hear fans anymore. It's annoying.
You see, my tower is about 3 feet away from my bed so I need to quiet it down.

dude, with my WC set, i only have 2 120 mm fans, (not counting the psu one, its silent) and even if u turn ur fans down to the lowest most silent setting, u will still get cpu temps around 30C

[Bill Cutting]

speaking of water cooling things, check this out!

http://firingsquad.com/hardware/sapphire_blizzard_radeon_x1900_xtx/

It's an x1900XTX with a water cooler.

[rotNdude]

It kind of resembles this:

Thermaltake Tide Water (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/product/Liquid/All-In-One/cl-w0052/cl-w0052.asp)

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by picartman
k i finaly got my WC setup installed and im in the process of airing it out so its covered in toliet paper ;) but damn i aranged the tubing so it looks frikin cool :D i had to install the radiator in the front :( looks lind of cool but meh i dunno, ill post a pic tomorrow,

temps before
around 50-65C

now its around 30C :):):):):)


ill OC it/ post pics later once im done airing it out

You did let it run without power on your motherboard and other computer parts for 24 hours to bleed the system and check for leaks, right? If not, you are one brave dude! :eek:

Nice temps BTW. :D

[picartman]

i guess im a brave dude ;) i filled the thing with toilet paper just in case :D

rotN a PM is waiting for u

[Sandman666]

Originally posted by Rhondo H. Slade
Turn off the machine before you go to bed?

Steve

Ya, but I usually listen to music when I lay down & all 2500+ is on my pc.

Originally posted by picartman
dude, with my WC set, i only have 2 120 mm fans, (not counting the psu one, its silent) and even if u turn ur fans down to the lowest most silent setting, u will still get cpu temps around 30C

The only fans I can hear are the case fans. The top fan kinda has a buzz like sound & the rear fan kinda has a wind sound.
Right now with just the cpu fan & the rear fan going, my temps are 72F total. Board & cpu around 30.
So what would you guys suggest that WON'T leak but is nice & quiet?

[noga]

Radiation water cooling is where its at now

there motors are like 8 db (i think) and thats queiter than almost ALL PSU fans and the OC pretty well a human whisper is like 20db from standard distance (ithink thats 3 or 4 ft) or somthng

theres only one on the marked i know of right now but some people do make there own that are pertty cool

[Slufa111]

I got the Kingwin water cooling kit.

Over the next day or so I will be testing it and ill post pictures and specs ok?

Ill help you out RotnDude

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Slufa111
I got the Kingwin water cooling kit.

Over the next day or so I will be testing it and ill post pictures and specs ok?

Ill help you out RotnDude

Sounds great. That's what we're looking for is some real world experience from fellow forum members.

[Slufa111]

Originally posted by rotNdude
Sounds great. That's what we're looking for is some real world experience from fellow forum members.

Looking at the unit it looks very nice and solid. But Ill post pictures and temperatures later on ok? (Probably not for a couple days (going to florida for 4 days:))

[jess]

Originally posted by rotNdude
It kind of resembles this:

Thermaltake Tide Water (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/product/Liquid/All-In-One/cl-w0052/cl-w0052.asp)


Thats 1 nice cooling system rotNdude!

[Rafiq_kassam1]

Originally posted by jess
Thats 1 nice cooling system rotNdude!
Are you reffering to the TT Tide Water or his actually cooling system. Because if your talking about the TT Tide water....he doesn't own it.

[Slufa111]

Ok good news from the start! I am in the process of reviewing the KingWin AquaStar AS-3000
Mind you I never hace fooled with water cooling before.

I am not going to install the VGA sink basically because one, I already connected and ran the wet test with only the CPU block.

Well I mean come on what kit can you buy that has all of this?
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/4403/dscf03204rw.jpg

Cant use wet cooling without this:)
http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/6555/dscf03214zd.jpg

I hooked up all the tubing.. it couldn't be made anymore easy. Just screw the tube right in and your done. props to KingWin for that:)

I connected the unit (main unit where the water is cycled) to a different computer to run the wet test because my current PSU is rather weak and is already powering too much.

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/8708/dscf03225yx.jpg

Sorry for the blurry picture (not my fault:() however you can see that the unit has a very user friendly interface which makes thing a whole lot easier to deal with.

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/2133/dscf03234nw.jpg

Though the tubing is smaller then I would have liked it is ok because this is no expert watercooling kit. However, it seems to cycle water extremely fast. This might just be me seeing how I am new at this or whatever but it when in and then out the tubes very quickly.

As you can see here the tubing is small as meantioned however the connections are very simple and you cant really screw up. The power connector is amazingly easy also! It looks as if it would connect into a serial port but it doesnt, regular 4 pin molex male/female.

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/7285/dscf03262yt.jpg

The next image is of the CPU block, which is very nice indeed. Though I havent hook anything up to my computer yet because I am still running my wet test.

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/4708/dscf03288ev.jpg

I will add more later when I hook it up (probably not until next Tuesday: vacation woot woot:))

I have a couple questions, it says once you insert the distilled water and anti-freeze (a special substance) TO NOT disconnect the setup. If I wanted to add the VGA block, how would I do that?

Only reason I want to add the VGA block is because I want a silent PC however I think the copper heatsink will do just as good.

Is it ok to leave my unit with the power off for a couple days? I cant use it yet, just decided to run the wet test:)

Here is the rest:

ya know I said well i will do this when i get back from my vacation but I didnt keep that idea very long.

http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/3172/picture0392zp.jpg

(Wire Management when I get new PSU)

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8206/picture0414eq.jpg

Surprisingly, they glow! Nice touch:)



Its 3am and I got to get up early so here are a few SUperPI results

http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/4782/temps21we.jpg
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/7674/temps7ik.jpg

Nothing uber cool but my AMD Freezer 64 Pro got up to 38C-41C

I say this kit is good all around:)

[noga]

COOL!

[Slufa111]

Yea. I hope it will perform as much as I hope:)

[noga]

so its just a cooling system in a PSU right?

[Slufa111]

Nope. It connects to the PSU to run and to cycle water but its not a PSU. You can put it in your case without taking up a lot of room. Ill post pictures when I am done:)

[noga]

Originally posted by Slufa111
Nope. It connects to the PSU to run and to cycle water but its not a PSU. You can put it in your case without taking up a lot of room. Ill post pictures when I am done:)

cool! lol

[Slufa111]

Here is the rest:

ya know I said well i will do this when i get back from my vacation but I didnt keep that idea very long.

http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/3172/picture0392zp.jpg

(Wire Management when I get new PSU)

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8206/picture0414eq.jpg

Surprisingly, they glow! Nice touch:)



Its 3am and I got to get up early so here are a few SUperPI results

http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/4782/temps21we.jpg
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/7674/temps7ik.jpg

Nothing uber cool but my AMD Freezer 64 Pro got up to 38C-41C

I say this kit is good all around:)

[Slufa111]

Right now It is idling at 26C CPU and the Motherboard at 31C

Before I had a Freezer 64 PRO, idled at 32C and motherboard 34-36C

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Slufa111
I have a couple questions, it says once you insert the distilled water and anti-freeze (a special substance) TO NOT disconnect the setup. If I wanted to add the VGA block, how would I do that?

Only reason I want to add the VGA block is because I want a silent PC however I think the copper heatsink will do just as good.

Is it ok to leave my unit with the power off for a couple days? I cant use it yet, just decided to run the wet test:)
I WILL UPDATE LATER

Nice review.

They just don't want you running the pump dry. That's a bad thing. You always have to do maintenance after a while on the loop, so that includes draining and cleaning the loop and blocks.

It's OK to leave the unit with the power off, assuming everything in the computer is powered off. It's no different than shutting off an air-cooled computer.

[Slufa111]

Ok awesome!

Well.. how do I drain it...just tip it upsidedown?

I just ordered a coouple more thigns from newegg.com (Antec 550W TruePowerII and a round cable)

So when i get the powersupply ill put it in and do some mangement. I also want to reapply the thermal paste I was not satisified with the way I put it on.

[rotNdude]

Added to the recommended list.

I can't seem to get to the Kingwin site for an instruction manual. Usually, you just open the same port that you filled it with, but they may have a drain port on that unit. What does the manual say, if anything?

[Slufa111]

Nothing about draining. But yes it has a filling port, I can just use that:) But I suppose that is ok since I wont be draining it for a while. Whats the usual 2-3 months?

[rotNdude]

I've seen people go up to a year or more. I think I captured it here:

Maintenance
Once you've lived with your water cooling for a while, you will need to occasionally empty the loop, clean the components, and refill the system. Is this necessary? Yes! This is probably one of the major drawbacks to water cooling other than LEAKS. How often you do this depends on how well you mixed the solution or how good the water solution is that you purchased. You'll know when it's time to do the maintenance when your temperatures start rising, or little green things start oozing out of your loop, or your pump starts sounding like a Honda Civic on NOS with Flow Master non-mufflers! ;)

http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=427778

[_-=1ZACH1=-_]

I recommend the "Corsair Cool" water cooling Kit . It comes with everything You need to Cool Either a Socket 478 CPU or a socket 939 CPU . The Pump is great (no noice) . The kit will Keep my Intel P4 3.4 Ghz @ 3.8 Ghz (room Temperature @ Idle) so if your room is 20 C Your CPU will be 20 C . I havent seen any temperatures Over 36 C with this Kit Its Great. It comes with a 120 mm Fan Its about in inch think that cools a Large radiator . It The Tubes a 3/8 '' Thick . The kit also allows you to Connect a Chipset Cooling Device and It also allows for a VGA cooler aswell . I dont have the VGA or Chpset Cooler , so I cant comment on that . I do know that the resevior has a Second Out put for water on it though So Setting these certain things Up would be a breeze .

Heres a Picture of the Kit in action.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e173/WP_zach/100_0241.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e173/WP_zach/100_0243.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e173/WP_zach/100_0249.jpg

[Slufa111]

Originally posted by _-=1ZACH1=-_
I recommend the "Corsair Cool" water cooling Kit . It comes with everything You need to Cool Either a Socket 478 CPU or a socket 939 CPU . The Pump is great (no noice) . The kit will Keep my Intel P4 3.4 Ghz @ 3.8 Ghz (room Temperature @ Idle) so if your room is 20 C Your CPU will be 20 C . I havent seen any temperatures Over 36 C with this Kit Its Great. It comes with a 120 mm Fan Its about in inch think that cools a Large radiator . It The Tubes a 3/8 '' Thick . The kit also allows you to Connect a Chipset Cooling Device and It also allows for a VGA cooler aswell . I dont have the VGA or Chpset Cooler , so I cant comment on that . I do know that the resevior has a Second Out put for water on it though So Setting these certain things Up would be a breeze .

Heres a Picture of the Kit in action.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e173/WP_zach/100_0241.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e173/WP_zach/100_0243.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e173/WP_zach/100_0249.jpg

How much and where can someone buy this?

That looks like a mini LCD screen in your front bezel

[_-=1ZACH1=-_]

I bought it for about $ 200 canadian from a Local shop . I just asked them to Order it in for Me and they did , and yes that is a 5.5 " LCD in the front with RCA and one S-Video Input aswell. The LCD was Meant for a car I just ripped It apart and Took an OLD cd drive ripped everything Out of that , Mounted the LCD to the Front of the Empty Drive and put all of the PCBs for the LCD inside of that . (took 20 hours to do)

[Slufa111]

Nice. My adhd wouldnt like that project.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by _-=1ZACH1=-_
I recommend the "Corsair Cool" water cooling Kit . It comes with everything You need to Cool Either a Socket 478 CPU or a socket 939 CPU . The Pump is great (no noice) . The kit will Keep my Intel P4 3.4 Ghz @ 3.8 Ghz (room Temperature @ Idle) so if your room is 20 C Your CPU will be 20 C . I havent seen any temperatures Over 36 C with this Kit Its Great. It comes with a 120 mm Fan Its about in inch think that cools a Large radiator . It The Tubes a 3/8 '' Thick . The kit also allows you to Connect a Chipset Cooling Device and It also allows for a VGA cooler aswell . I dont have the VGA or Chpset Cooler , so I cant comment on that . I do know that the resevior has a Second Out put for water on it though So Setting these certain things Up would be a breeze .

Heres a Picture of the Kit in action.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e173/WP_zach/100_0241.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e173/WP_zach/100_0243.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e173/WP_zach/100_0249.jpg

Thanks, mate! It's been added to the list.

[_-=1ZACH1=-_]

I say that this Thread Would Make a great sticky . It has all the information you would need to make a great water Cooling system . whether its a kit , Or a do it yourself jobby . this thread will work for any water Cooling Noob or expert its great.

[rotNdude]

Thanks for the compliment. Actually we're working on some super stinkies:

http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=427506

[rock_hopper12]

Ok first off this thread is EXTREMELY helpful. Good job.

I'm looking to order a computer system soon and I am interested in water cooling it.

So here is the case I am looking at installing a WC setup in:

CoolerMaster Centurion 5 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811119077)

I know it's only a midtower but I saw a WC setup in one of these cases in the DangerDen Videos (the one about removing and draining the system).

Basically, I just want to do this to minimize noise and possibly some minimal overclocking.

I searched around and using this guide seleced some parts that I think would work. Please help me out and tell me if I missed anything.



Pump

Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu.html)

Radiator and Fans

DangerDen Black Ice Xtreme II Radiator (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=2&cat=5&page=1)
2 Aspire Green UV 120 mm Fans (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811998122)

CPU Block

Apogee CPU Water Block (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811998122)

Tubing and Clamps

Tygon 1/2" Inner Diameter 5/8" Outer Diameter Tubing (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty1id5odlatu.html)
Breeze Miniature Hose Clamps 7/16" to 25/32" (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/brmihocl7int1.html)
T-connector with 1/2" Barb fittings (http://www.crazypc.com/items/93440.html)
DangerDen Black Fillport (http://www.crazypc.com/items/934260B.html)

Miscellaneous

PC Ice Coolant (Clear) (http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=item&id=1651&prevaction=category&previd=2&prevstart=0)
Brilliant Orange UV Additive (http://cool-cases-usa.com/Zen-Cart-v1.2.4/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_9&products_id=9&zenid=72f03b47959e3d3ce105ba357d9f2021)



Okay I think that's everything I need. How effective do you think the orange additive will be with the PC Ice and this light:

Sunbeam UV Light Kit (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16800884025)


or should I just go for the UV Red PC Ice?

The pump will use a 12v connector from the PSU, correct? What will I need to do to connect both the pump and the light which use a 12v connector when the PSU I'm planning on purchasing (Antec TruePower II - 550 Watt (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16800884025)) only has one? Or does the light just use a "Peripheral connector" of which the Antec PSU has 7?

Should I use a fillport reservoir or just connect the fillport to the tubing?

And finally how much of the PC Ice will I need? I noticed you purchased three.

Is the Storm CPU Block better than the Apogee? Should I consider switching CPU Blocks?

Thanks in advance for any help.

[picartman]

RotN u have a pm

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by rock_hopper12
Ok first off this thread is EXTREMELY helpful. Good job. Thanks

I'm looking to order a computer system soon and I am interested in water cooling it.

So here is the case I am looking at installing a WC setup in:

CoolerMaster Centurion 5 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811119077)

I know it's only a midtower but I saw a WC setup in one of these cases in the DangerDen Videos (the one about removing and draining the system).

Basically, I just want to do this to minimize noise and possibly some minimal overclocking.

I searched around and using this guide seleced some parts that I think would work. Please help me out and tell me if I missed anything.

Pump

Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu.html)

Radiator and Fans

DangerDen Black Ice Xtreme II Radiator (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=2&cat=5&page=1)
2 Aspire Green UV 120 mm Fans (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811998122)

CPU Block

Apogee CPU Water Block (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811998122)

Tubing and Clamps

Tygon 1/2" Inner Diameter 5/8" Outer Diameter Tubing (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty1id5odlatu.html)
Breeze Miniature Hose Clamps 7/16" to 25/32" (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/brmihocl7int1.html)
T-connector with 1/2" Barb fittings (http://www.crazypc.com/items/93440.html)
DangerDen Black Fillport (http://www.crazypc.com/items/934260B.html)

Miscellaneous

PC Ice Coolant (Clear) (http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=item&id=1651&prevaction=category&previd=2&prevstart=0)
Brilliant Orange UV Additive (http://cool-cases-usa.com/Zen-Cart-v1.2.4/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_9&products_id=9&zenid=72f03b47959e3d3ce105ba357d9f2021)

Okay I think that's everything I need. How effective do you think the orange additive will be with the PC Ice and this light:

Sunbeam UV Light Kit (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16800884025)

Additives are always kinda tricky to know for sure

or should I just go for the UV Red PC Ice? I bought the PC Ice blue and it wasn't very UV reactive, so I picked up some UV blue later

The pump will use a 12v connector from the PSU, correct? yes What will I need to do to connect both the pump and the light which use a 12v connector when the PSU I'm planning on purchasing (Antec TruePower II - 550 Watt (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16800884025)) only has one? Or does the light just use a "Peripheral connector" of which the Antec PSU has 7? That PSU has multiple 12V molex connectors, so there should be no problem.

Should I use a fillport reservoir or just connect the fillport to the tubing? I wouldn't get the res. The t-line itself provides the reservoir capability for the cooling loop.

And finally how much of the PC Ice will I need? I noticed you purchased three. I should have only got one bottle, so one will do for most cooling loops.

Is the Storm CPU Block better than the Apogee? Should I consider switching CPU Blocks? The Apogee is just as efficient for cooling as the Storm unless you are running your CPU naked (i.e., you rip the IHS off the CPU). The IHS is the metal part that covers the processor and the HSF usually sits on.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[rock_hopper12]

Alright. Thanks for the help rotN.

One last question:

In the DangerDen Videos he uses Arctic Ceramique on the VGA Block (I'm not sure if he says what he used on the CPU Block). The Apogee block comes packaged with Arctic Ceramique. Should I use it or buy some AS5 for the CPU like you did?

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by rock_hopper12
Alright. Thanks for the help rotN.

One last question:

In the DangerDen Videos he uses Arctic Ceramique on the VGA Block (I'm not sure if he says what he used on the CPU Block). The Apogee block comes packaged with Arctic Ceramique. Should I use it or buy some AS5 for the CPU like you did?

Either works just fine. I personally like the AS5, but I think it is overhyped, IMHO.

[rotNdude]

Alright. I just dug this old case out of the storage area as I'm looking to put water on yet another computer. It's the case from an old Gateway G6-300XL. It was a P3 300GHz that I paid over $4000 for. Ah yes, I always had to have the latest and greatest. It came with a "revolutionary DVD ROM, TV/FM tuner, the fastest Intel on the market, the best VGA card money could buy and even had a 56K modem for "ultra fast" connectivity to bulletin boards! WooHoo (or not)!

Now, here is my question. It has the extra space at the top for the radiator, which is the way I did it in my Lian Li PC-75B, nor does it have the side window (not a big deal). However, it doesn't have nearly the depth of the Lian Li and cover is wrap around. Is it worth doing the engineering and getting it to work? I think it has great possibilities, but I am looking for opinions.

Pics:

Side by side comparison (http://i1.tinypic.com/wusbgg.jpg)

Back (http://i1.tinypic.com/wv1fls.jpg) <--- Notice the smoke trail from when the PSU blew!

Front (http://i1.tinypic.com/wv1i86.jpg)

Top (http://i3.tinypic.com/wv1ph5.jpg) <--- Notice the weird dents/slots!

Side panel (http://i1.tinypic.com/wv1seu.jpg) <--- Notice it's a wrap-around cover! Which means I'll have to do something in both the top of the case and cover, if that's where I put the rad!

Side view against the Lian Li (http://i2.tinypic.com/wv1w1u.jpg) <--- Notice the difference in depth.

So, what do you think?

[Samba Pa Ti]

that massive '300 ghz' gateway is a beast of watercooling potential :P

my emachines (owned by gateway) psu just blew, nothing like the stench of burning dust.

my idea is this:

since it has no side panel you could put the rad in the side (piping that up would be a pain)

another alternative is putting it outside the case or using a drive bay.
just looked at the top picture and that seems promising, cutting out the slot above the drive bay would give access to the top of the case (where holes could be drilled/cut) that would take up 2 drivebays but has potential to remove alot of heat.

[Triskelion]

-----

[T Rush]

which produces more heat...CPU or video card?

...or which should come first in the 'loop'?


what if its two cards in SLI?

...how should the order go...

top video card > bottom video card > CPU > pump > radiator

...or should the CPU come before the video cards?

[rotNdude]

Based on temperatures, the GPU produces more heat. Here is the the way most people run their water loop:

Originally posted by rotNdude
What does it mean when they say loop? The water cooling system is designed to circulate water through the cooling components. The loop is the path that the water takes though the tubing and components. A typical loop is set up to circulate
Pump ---> radiator ---> CPU ---> GPU ---> Reservoir ---> Pump.

So for an SLI system,
Pump ---> radiator ---> CPU ---> GPU1 ---> GPU2 ---> Reservoir ---> Pump

The top card in the SLI setup is usually the first and the lower card is the second for the run. This is usually done to make your tubing runs the "cleanest". Some people will try to run a Y-fitting and have parallel runs to the 2 GPUs, but your tubing runs must be identical lengths when they come back together at the next Y-fitting, or your flows may not be identical and one card may receive less cooling flow.

[T Rush]

pump > radiator 1 > CPU > radiator 2 > video card 1 > video card 2 > ...

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by T Rush
pump > radiator 1 > CPU > radiator 2 > video card 1 > video card 2 > ...

You sure can. The more the merrier, or should I say cooler. ;)

[T Rush]

well...so this time with this next system I'm building for myself..

I bought the case first (last time I just semi-randomly bought a CPU/MOBO/Heatsink (http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=334828))

the case I got isn't the biggest or best for water cooling, but it is just right for my desk set-up

my original ideas/options were:
1) to have all the radiator/pump/reservoir stuff external to the case
or
2) gut the internal CD/DVD hard drive rack/mounts out of the case and have a large long radiator mounted vertically, taking up the whole front face of the case


the case I got is the Centurion 532 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811119094), which the whole front of the case is a vented grill

but now I'm thinking of getting two small radiators something like this (http://www.sharkacorp.com/images/asetek/kits/1241/single-rad-lg.gif) and mounting them in the stock locations for the 120mm case fans

the problem I see here is that one would be mounted in the lower front of the case with cool air being pulled in through it
where the other would be on the higher back location with warmer 'case air' being blown out through it...now there could be other fans mounted in the front of the case adding more cool air to the inside of the case, so not all the air would first flow through the front radiator and then that same air would need to go out though the second radiator in the back

..but would a set-up like this kind of take the heat out of the loop with the first radiator, but then just put it back in with the second radiator?

[rotNdude]

You could have both rads pulling cool air in and not worry about the warm air from the case interfering with heat transfer. Maybe add another exhaust at the front top or top?

That case is a little small. What pump do you have your eye on? Also tank or T-line?

[picartman]

i have my rad in my drive bays, meh i wish i could have it somewhere else on my TT armor :(

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by picartman
i have my rad in my drive bays, meh i wish i could have it somewhere else on my TT armor :(

Not many other choices in that case, mate, if you want to keep it inside. Lots of possibilities outside though.

[T Rush]

pump
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcoaqmoeh10.html

radiator 1
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcoaievo120.html

CPU block
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcocuxtcpub.html
or
http://sharkacomputers.com/incorecpuwab1.html

radiator 2
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcoaievo120.html

GPU block 1
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcoaqfx78gt.html

GPU block 2
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcoaqfx78gt.html

and I doubt I have room for a reservoir...so T-line/fill, then back to pump


it also might be an option to get this
http://www.evga.com/products/moreinfo.asp?pn=202-F1-EV81-01&family=99
..and add CPU block , and replace with those radiators I linked(that fit in my case)

[picartman]

Originally posted by rotNdude
Not many other choices in that case, mate, if you want to keep it inside. Lots of possibilities outside though.

damn it, well the top of the case is a no-go, the back, well thats wont work at all, no space with my rad. and at the side, uhhh never saw a rad. at the side of a case before and it would be hard to work with, and the front does look cool only it looks bootleg and "unclean"

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by T Rush
pump
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcoaqmoeh10.html

radiator 1
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcoaievo120.html

CPU block
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcocuxtcpub.html
or
http://sharkacomputers.com/incorecpuwab1.html

radiator 2
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcoaievo120.html

GPU block 1
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcoaqfx78gt.html

GPU block 2
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcoaqfx78gt.html

and I doubt I have room for a reservoir...so T-line/fill, then back to pump


it also might be an option to get this
http://www.evga.com/products/moreinfo.asp?pn=202-F1-EV81-01&family=99
..and add CPU block , and replace with those radiators I linked(that fit in my case)

Well, this appears to be a low flow system. That pump is good for 132 gal/hr with 1/4" ID tubing. The MCP655 that I have is good for up to 317 gal/hr with 1/2" ID tubing.

Since it is a low flow system, those full GPU blocks may be OK, but I really don't recommend them.

What are you going for here T Rush? Looks? Good cooling? Extreme overclocking? Quiet? We need more info.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by picartman
damn it, well the top of the case is a no-go, the back, well thats wont work at all, no space with my rad. and at the side, uhhh never saw a rad. at the side of a case before and it would be hard to work with, and the front does look cool only it looks bootleg and "unclean"

Why is the top a no go? You can always offset the rad a few inches off the top. Same way with the side and the back. Threaded rod and a little imagination do wonders.

[T Rush]

Originally posted by rotNdude
What are you going for here T Rush?

I don't really know yet...its still kinda early to tell

I might have a better idea... once I know what I'm cooling!!

lol

so far I only have the case...and I like these radiators
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcoaievo120.html
...as they are just the perfect size to fit in my case

..so thats about all I have so far :(

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by T Rush
I don't really know yet...its still kinda early to tell

I might have a better idea... once I know what I'm cooling!!

lol

so far I only have the case...and I like these radiators
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcoaievo120.html
...as they are just the perfect size to fit in my case

..so thats about all I have so far :(

Okay, well you keep posting here and hopefully someone besides me can give guidance. I can't imagine I'm the only one on this forum that knows anything about water cooling. ;)

But once again, the system you're looking at right now is a low flow system.

[Daisuke]

Anyone care to point out a decent cooling liquid that won't freeze at -40c? my resivoir almost plugged up when it became a large chunk of shiny crystal.

[picartman]

Originally posted by rotNdude
Why is the top a no go? You can always offset the rad a few inches off the top. Same way with the side and the back. Threaded rod and a little imagination do wonders.

see if i but it in the back, it conflicts with the vid card cables and such, but the top would be possible if i can somehow keep it elevated with out making it look crappy or wierd, i like neatly done things :)

[Rhondo H. Slade]

Originally posted by T Rush
what if its two cards in SLI?

If you have SLI with the highest-end gfx cards, how about running a separate WC setup just to them with the original setup going to CPU, NB, SB, etc.

Steve

[Xtreme_Monkey]

put this page a top of forum

[T Rush]

Originally posted by Xtreme_Monkey
put this page a top of forum

this thread was done just for this sticky

http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=430916

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Daisuke
Anyone care to point out a decent cooling liquid that won't freeze at -40c? my resivoir almost plugged up when it became a large chunk of shiny crystal.

You can use any automotive anti-freeze (with anti-corrosion) fluid. Most people use 90% distilled water with 10% anti-freeze, but to withstand -40°C you may need a 50-50 mixture. It depends on the quality of the anti-freeze.

[T Rush]

ok...so here are some pictures of the 'dual radiator' set-up I'm thinking about

http://i4.tinypic.com/zxl0qu.jpg


http://i4.tinypic.com/zxl37d.jpg

(yeah...kinda bad 3D drawings...but I'm learning)

I found this really cool 3D app that Google bought and now is giving away free
http://sketchup.google.com/

check out all the computer parts you can get
http://scc.jazzle.co.uk/

[picartman]

thats a cool sketch and it seems like a great idea :D

what case is that?

[T Rush]

the case is just one I downloaded...the Lian-Li PC-7....its not the one I have

[T Rush]

ok...so here is my 3D drawing Trushpc1.Skp by Bigupload.Com (http://www.bigupload.com/d=6C8CC334)

download that "Google SketchUp (free)"
http://sketchup.google.com/download.html

..so you can open my drawing and see it in 3D

and can someone figure out how to make better hoses?

[rotNdude]

Looking pretty good. The only thing that I see is the orientation of the pump to that reservoir. The pump you're looking at is ~4" long, which I assume includes the fitting. It may be tough to first off, squeeze in that way, and second, get the hose connected properly to the res.

Regarding the tool, I'll download it and play with it. I used to do a lot of CAD in my former life.

[T Rush]

Originally posted by rotNdude
Regarding the tool, I'll download it and play with it. I used to do a lot of CAD in my former life.

Yaay ;)

Originally posted by rotNdude
Looking pretty good. The only thing that I see is the orientation of the pump to that reservoir. The pump you're looking at is ~4" long, which I assume includes the fitting. It may be tough to first off, squeeze in that way, and second, get the hose connected properly to the res.

yeah..please note that I just grabbed that reservoir file off of http://scc.jazzle.co.uk/
and I think I even put it in my drawing upsidedown

so I think to make something like that work I'll have to make my own reservoir from scratch(leaks?..no it wont leak at all :p)...and have the pump connect directly to it
..but the idea was to have the return in a less awkward place...as turning/placing the pump seemed to not go so well do to space in the case...I just couldn't get the return line with a T/fill line to fit in there without a super sharp bend or something

but hopefully you can see what I'm thinking about ...and anyone can help foresee problems I might run into

[rotNdude]

Another issue I see may be draining the system.

[T Rush]

? :(

draining?...do I have to?

and its it ok to have a fan(like the one in the front) suck air thru the 'rad'...instead of blowing in?

[rotNdude]

Sucking air through the rad is generally preferred. It's called a "pull" configuration, as opposed to a "push" configuration or "push-pull" config (fans on both sides with air flow in the same direction).

And yes, you will have to drain it sooner or later. But, you could always just sit it in the bathtub and let it rip.

[Daisuke]

Originally posted by rotNdude

And yes, you will have to drain it sooner or later. But, you could always just sit it in the bathtub and let it rip.
Not a good idea for me. :D I'm putting liquid mercury in my cooling system!! :D
(once I'm done makeing it)

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Daisuke
Not a good idea for me. :D I'm putting liquid mercury in my cooling system!! :D
(once I'm done makeing it)

Umm, are you aware of the potential hazards? Also, where are you going to get enough to fill a system?

What if I have a large mercury spill?
A spill of a large amount of mercury (more than the amount of mercury in a household fever thermometer) can be dangerous to all members of the household including pets because of the mercury vapors in the air of the house. Most likely a hazardous material team will be required to do a professional clean up. Seal off the area and have all family members including pets leave the area. Call the fire department in your area for advice. Usually professional clean up is expensive but the health and safety of the family is worth it.

http://www.calpoison.org/public/mercury.html

Just one of many sites that discuss mercury hazards.

[Daisuke]

Originally posted by rotNdude
Umm, are you aware of the potential hazards? Also, where are you going to get enough to fill a system?



http://www.calpoison.org/public/mercury.html

Just one of many sites that discuss mercury hazards.
HAHAHA I was expecting that responce!
And I know some places that sell it by the Gallon :D

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Daisuke
HAHAHA I was expecting that responce!
And I know some places that sell it by the Gallon :D

I'm glad that you're in Canada and thousands of miles from me. But, if you were my son/daughter, your idea would be squashed like a bug on the rug. ;)

[invisiblekorean]

No offense, but using mercury wouldn't be worth it. At least not if you look at the cooling potential vs. health hazards/handling hazards/disposal methods/cost/potential for a leak/etc.

Can you imagine what you'd have to do if you had a leak? If you actually do it post a pic, and pray.

[T Rush]

well this makes it all seem too easy

eXtreme Flow Designer v1.0
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/flowdesigner.jsp

[rotNdude]

Yeah, I've played a little with that flow designer, but I haven't really put it through all the paces. Are you thinking I should stick that somewhere in the main posts?

[rotNdude]

Are you seeing any water blocks coming out for Socket AM2 support? I can't seem to find any yet.

[Tw33ter]

They'll probably just release a different mounting bracket for it, like with the storm for instance.

[rotNdude]

So are you seeing any that show AM2 support with the new brackets?

[Tw33ter]

the only one i've found so far is the dangerden tdx

http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=16&cat=21&page=1

[Kidfinger]

O.K. I sold some spare PC parts lying around for $300. I sold it to a good friend of mine and he is making bi weekly instalments of $50 . With this extra cash, I figured I could start researching some basic water cooling kits just to get my feet wet. I have been trying to find a good quality kit that is just for the VGA card (X1900XT) but can be expanded at a later date to include the CPU. So far, I've looked into the Kingwing drive bay cooler, a few Thermaltakes, and the gigabite kit. Do you have any suggestions for a water cooling noob such as my self?

Took your advice rotNdude;)

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Kidfinger
Took your advice rotNdude;)

Thanks, M8!

Okay. First off, there really are no good video card water cooling kits that can be expanded to also handle a CPU later.

What case do you have? That is always a "big" factor in determining what will work.

[Kidfinger]

Originally posted by rotNdude
Thanks, M8!

Okay. First off, there really are no good video card water cooling kits that can be expanded to also handle a CPU later.

:(



What case do you have? That is always a "big" factor in determining what will work.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811156059

[rotNdude]

That's a pretty decent case with good possibilities. Let me think about it and get back to you.

[Kidfinger]

While you are thinking about it, keep in mind that I have a thermaltake big typhoon on my CPU. All 3 HD slots are taken, and I have one 5.25 inch drive bay open. My MoBo is a BFG Nforce4 Ultra. I really dont want to give up the typhoon just yet, but if I have to, I can put it on ebay. I have a cubic manure load of stuff I'll be putting up there soon anyway.

[aznkidbball]

what's the best way to connect a gpu into the loop? If I plan to to do some overclocking on the cpu and gpu. Also where should I put the tank reservoir in the loop?

I thought about having a tube connected between the cpu and gpu, but I'm a noob to water cooling and I'm concerned about reducing water flow and heat transfer from cpu to gpu.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Kidfinger
While you are thinking about it, keep in mind that I have a thermaltake big typhoon on my CPU. All 3 HD slots are taken, and I have one 5.25 inch drive bay open. My MoBo is a BFG Nforce4 Ultra. I really dont want to give up the typhoon just yet, but if I have to, I can put it on ebay. I have a cubic manure load of stuff I'll be putting up there soon anyway.

OK. Here's what I would recommend, but I'm breaking my own rules about always using 1/2" ID tubing:

Danger Den - DDC-12V REV2 "PLUS" $74.95 (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=135&cat=4&page=1) <--- mount this in the empty 5 1/2" bay.

Black Ice Pro Radiator $24.95 (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=3&cat=5&page=1) <--- mount this outside the case behind the 120mm fan in the case.

The Danger Den Acetal MAZE4 GPU $44.95 (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=150&cat=18&page=1)

RAMsinks for Video Cards $19.95 (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=122&cat=57&page=1)

You'll also need the tubing, T-fitting for a T-line, clamps, radiator mounting hardware and something to plug the T-line. This is what I use:

Danger Den Fillport $11.95 (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=56&cat=6&page=1)

Total = $176.95 (w/o the other items you need).

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by aznkidbball
what's the best way to connect a gpu into the loop? If I plan to to do some overclocking on the cpu and gpu. Also where should I put the tank reservoir in the loop?

I thought about having a tube connected between the cpu and gpu, but I'm a noob to water cooling and I'm concerned about reducing water flow and heat transfer from cpu to gpu.

Here is a pretty good site to look at how a loop should be set up:

http://www.extreme.outervision.com/flowdesigner.jsp

Note to self, add this to the main post

[Rhondo H. Slade]

Originally posted by Daisuke
Not a good idea for me. :D I'm putting liquid mercury in my cooling system!! :D
(once I'm done makeing it)
And here I thought that Die-Suckah had been banned for unrepentant lunacy...

Steve

[Kidfinger]

Originally posted by rotNdude


Total = $176.95 (w/o the other items you need).


Thanks for the advice. A few remaining ?'s though. First, why are you breaking a personal rule about 1/2" tubing in this instance? Effeciency of the pump maybe? I hope that didnt come off as sarcastic as I mean this question with Sincerity. Second, will I need the t right now since Im only hooking up my GPU?

Thanks agian for some incite on this little endevor:D

BTW, on a different, but similar note, I finally got a response from Thermaltake about using the Tidewater system with the 1900XT. They basically said it would work but would be no more effecient than a high end cooling fan.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Kidfinger
Thanks for the advice. A few remaining ?'s though. First, why are you breaking a personal rule about 1/2" tubing in this instance? Effeciency of the pump maybe? I hope that didnt come off as sarcastic as I mean this question with Sincerity. Second, will I need the t right now since Im only hooking up my GPU?

Thanks agian for some incite on this little endevor:D

BTW, on a different, but similar note, I finally got a response from Thermaltake about using the Tidewater system with the 1900XT. They basically said it would work but would be no more effecient than a high end cooling fan.

In water cooling systems it's all about flow rates. Lower flow rate systems have to let the water absorb more heat from the components you're trying to cool, which means that the radiator has to dissipate more heat from the water. That's why with low flow systems many folks will have double and triple radiators to allow more time for heat dissipation. A water cooling system usually reaches some "equilibrium" temperature depending on how much heat the components are generating. Smaller tubing means lower flow rates and overall higher "equilibrium" temps. The smallest ID component in the loop determines the maximum flow rate in the loop. Would you rather have the fire fighters come to your house to put out a fire with 1" hoses or 4" hoses connected to a 4" outlet on the fire hydrant?

Regarding the T, if you don't have a tank or T, there is no way to bleed the air out of the system or fill it.

And finally, the Thermaltake response. Why wouldn't they tell you that their H2O system is better than an air-cooled solution? They're in the business to make money and the kits they sell are more expensive than an air cooler. ;) I wish I could find the post about the kit system, but I can't.

[CaJaks2]

USB was gonna get his WC soon.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by CaJaks2
USB was gonna get his WC soon.

It's about time! I doubt his old post is here anymore, so lead him here bro!

[Kidfinger]

Originally posted by rotNdude
In water cooling systems it's all about flow rates............


You are a God.

'bows down with arms outstreched'

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Kidfinger
You are a God.

'bows down with arms outstreched'

Nah, I'm not a God, LOL! I'm just someone that likes to help! There are probably folks on this forum that know a lot more about water cooling than I do, but are too reserved to post. I can think of several and they know who they are, but I'm not going to post names.

[picartman]

hey rotN is this the tubing i want if i have a 1/2 tubing components?

http://www.crazypc.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=93250&Category_Code=

its Clearflex but i put Tygon in the search words and only got this :/, and i would be ordering this from dangerden or frozencpu, but i cant find any metal hose clamps in DD or Fcpu, im ordering this tubing from Crazy PC cuz i dont only want to order some clamps since thats a tiny order, i looked in DD and Fcpu for those metal clamps u recommended but i couldnt find any, can u look for me please?

[Rhondo H. Slade]

Originally posted by aznkidbball
what's the best way to connect a gpu into the loop? If I plan to to do some overclocking on the cpu and gpu. Also where should I put the tank reservoir in the loop?

I thought about having a tube connected between the cpu and gpu, but I'm a noob to water cooling and I'm concerned about reducing water flow and heat transfer from cpu to gpu.
Have you read the entirety of this thread?
I suspect NOT, as this very topic has been well discussed earlier in this thread.

Steve

[picartman]

who in the hell would want to read 14 pages of posts? unless u mean the first page?

jeez give him a break he/she only has one star and doesnt know any better.....

[Rhondo H. Slade]

Originally posted by picartman
who in the hell would want to read 14 pages of posts? unless u mean the first page?

jeez give him a break he/she only has one star and doesnt know any better.....
And this is the PRECISE reason WHY the stickies were developed in the first place.

Steve

[picartman]

he only has ONE STAR, man i feel like i have to use caps lock to get my MESSAGE ACROSS, but meh w.e, judging from this discussion i think that aznkbball has understanded to read the stickies, but u shouldnt be so harsh (at least it looks harsh cuz usually caps lock = shouting out words) to a newbie

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by picartman
hey rotN is this the tubing i want if i have a 1/2 tubing components?

http://www.crazypc.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=93250&Category_Code=

its Clearflex but i put Tygon in the search words and only got this :/, and i would be ordering this from dangerden or frozencpu, but i cant find any metal hose clamps in DD or Fcpu, im ordering this tubing from Crazy PC cuz i dont only want to order some clamps since thats a tiny order, i looked in DD and Fcpu for those metal clamps u recommended but i couldnt find any, can u look for me please?

Regarding the tubing, if you want 1/2" ID (internal diameter) tubing then that link you posted is the wrong tubing. It's 3/8" ID. Do you have 1/2" barbs?

Regarding the metal worm clamps, I took a small piece of tubing to a local hardware store (Ace) and found the smallest clamps (length and width) that would fit. Those clamps at Crazy PC will work though. I can't find any on DD or FCPU, but here are some at voyeurmods:

http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=item&id=2203&prevaction=category&previd=2&prevstart=0

They also have the 1/2" ID Clearflex:

http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=category&id=2&subid=254

[Tw33ter]

I think I need to get me a watercooling setup as well, 1.7 vcore and 55c load is kinda pushing it on air lol

Here's what I'm thinking of getting :D
Lian Li PC-G70B (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811112105)
Delrin Fillport (http://www.petrastechshop.com/madeficap.html)
1/2" T Fitting (http://www.petrastechshop.com/1odtf1and7id.html)
Thermochill PA120.3 (http://www.jab-tech.com/Thermochill-PA120.3-pr-3264.html)
120mm Yate Loon D12SL-12 (http://www.petrastechshop.com/12yalod1cafa.html) x 6
120mm Black wire fan grill (http://www.jab-tech.com/120mm-Black-wire-fan-grill-pr-2867.html) x 6
Sunbeam Multi Fan Power Port (http://www.jab-tech.com/Sunbeam-Multi-Fan-Power-Port-pr-3371.html)
Swiftech Storm Rev. 2 (http://www.petrastechshop.com/swstexpeunwa.html)
EK-FC8X8 Full Cover GPU Block (http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=38)
1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Masterkleer (http://www.petrastechshop.com/1id3odmagepu.html)
Alphacool Laing DDC-Pump 12V Ultra (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=4509) x 2
Radiical Delrin Turbo Head For DDC (http://www.radiical.com.au/products/RadiicalPumpTop.asp) x 2

[rotNdude]

Nice selections. Just a couple of suggestions or comments.

Do you not want a case with a side window to show off this water cooling?

You really don't need 6 fans in a push-pull config, unless you want it to "look" cooler.

I try to steer people away from full cover GPU blocks. They tend to restrict flow. Much better, IMHO, to get a block just for the GPU and BGA RAM sinks for the VRAM.

No need to get 2 pumps, one will be plenty. That adapter for the pump is pretty nice. I've never seen it. Do you know how that affects the warranty or performance?

Regarding the Storm CPU block, just remember that block is best suited to "naked" CPUs (i.e., the IHS is removed from the CPU). You can save money by getting the Apogee. If you do get the Storm, just remember the center port is the inlet port.

[picartman]

Originally posted by rotNdude
Do you have 1/2" barbs?
yes my cpu water block (http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-blc-244.html)

[Tw33ter]

Is there a lian li case with a window that'll fit a pa120.3? Yeah I think I'm just gonna get the mp-1 for $45, the ek one costs way too much lol. About the pumps, from what I saw on xs.org, people are saying that 2 of those in series, with the modded tops, have better head/flow then an iwaki, and less heat dump for about the same price. Once you do anything to the top of the pumps, you void the warranty, but I'll let it run a few days with the stock top just to be sure everything works before I replace it with the delrin one. I got 6 fans just in case I need a few more, cuz I always seem to run out lol. The storm will be going on a mobile a64 4000+ newark (currently @ 3006mhz lol). All the mobile a64's ship completely naked :D.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Tw33ter
Is there a lian li case with a window that'll fit a pa120.3?

The PC-75B will up top. That's the case I have:

http://tinypic.com/j5i32u.jpg

[Tw33ter]

Lian Li PC-G70B Black Aluminum Super Tower with Window (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_204&products_id=20310)

I like that one, it's got a 120 in the front and rear and one on the side, perfect for 3 of those yates, with the other 3 on the rad. I'm putting the rad at the top like you did. Is it best to have the 120's that are on the case as intake, then have it exhaust through the rad, or have the rad as intake and use all the case fans as exhaust?

[picartman]

rotN i think i can select what tubing i want for that tubing :/ it says in a little box, "do u want 3/8 or 1/2?" dont u agree?

[rotNdude]

I don't understand the fan question. :confused:

The fans either blow air out of the case or suck air into the case.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by picartman
rotN i think i can select what tubing i want for that tubing :/ it says in a little box, "do u want 3/8 or 1/2?" dont u agree?

Yeah, you select the tubing size you need.

[picartman]

hows this rotN? is this the correct size for my cpu waterblock?

http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-tub-29.html

[Tw33ter]

i believe you need 1/2" ID, not 1/2'' OD

about the fans lol

rad = intake

or

rad = exhaust

[rotNdude]

I think this is what you want for 1/2" ID Tygon tubing:

http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=172&cat=33&page=1

[picartman]

thx, i thinks i gots it

http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-tub-28.html

[picartman]

Originally posted by rotNdude
I think this is what you want for 1/2" ID Tygon tubing:

http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=172&cat=33&page=1
yeah that one is cheaper, so ill get a quantity of 4 if i want 4 feet of it? i think thats how it went when i got my first tubing...

[rotNdude]

Yup, you buy it by the foot.

[picartman]

thx again dude

[rotNdude]

You're welcome, M8.

[FreeAgent]

I ventured into Water Cooling for the first time with the Cooler Master Aquagate Mini R80. Figured I'm not a big overclocker, I've had it almost a year now and no problems so far. Works like a charm.

[rotNdude]

Thanks, M8! Added.

[Tw33ter]

for those wanting black tubing (it's UV resistant though):

Black Tygon (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=7510&product%5Fid=8701)

note: must buy in 10ft. lengths

[rotNdude]

Or you can add a bunch of blue food coloring like my buddy pic and it will look black. LOL!

[Bill Cutting]

hey guys. I just ordered my new rig and now i have to get all of the water cooling stuff figured out. I was wondering if you guys could help me. I've got the basics pretty much figured out, but im having some trouble trying to get the tube fitting sizes to be the same. Here's what I was thinking:
http://xoxide.com/thermaltake-aquabay-m1-liquid.html
http://xoxide.com/swiftech-mcp655.html
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=2&cat=5&page=1
http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-liq-02.html?id=hePjXJus
http://xoxide.com/swiftech-apogee-water-block.html
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=172&cat=33&page=1

I bought this case:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811148033

So the common theme is going to be green stuff. If you guys could give me some tips or pointers, they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[rotNdude]

I made this comment about the Thermaltake aquabay in your computer build thread. Don't get it. It can only handle 1/4" to 3/8" tubing.

The other components all look good. If you want high CFM fans, the BIX2 radiator is good. If you want lower CFM (and lower noise) fans the MCR220 is better (supposedly).

MCR-220 "Quiet Power" series Radiator (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCR220-qp.asp)

I can't get to newegg to look at that case. It would be really nice if you would post the component description in the URL links so we know what you're looking at, instead of just the links. It's pretty easy and helps us lazy old men with not having to click on each link. :D

[ur l=http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCR220-qp.asp]Description of the part[/ur l] <--- take the space out between the r and l in url.

[Bill Cutting]

Lol, whoops sorry guys. Ok here tis' for the actual rig:
HIS Radeon X1900XTX IceQ3 (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2248730&Tab=2&NoMapp=0)
G.SKILL Value Series 2GB (2 x 1GB) (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820231032)
DFI LANPARTY UT nF4 Ultra-D (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16813136152)
AMD Opteron 170 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103586)
Western Digital Caviar 7200rpm 400gb (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16822136004)
SAMSUNG Black CD/DVD Burner (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16827151118)
LOGISYS YIN YANG (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811148033)
OCZ GameXStream 700w PSU (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=2235424&sku=O261-2005)

And apparently some of the water cooling stuff that i chose wont work out. I would like to have a cool reservior that would go in a drive bay or something, but i cant seem to find one that would get the tube fitting right. So far, this is what I have for the water system:
Swiftech MCP655 1/2in. pump (http://xoxide.com/swiftech-mcp655.html)
Black Ice Xtreme II Radiator (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=2&cat=5&page=1)
Swiftech Green UV Reactive HydrX Coolant (http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-liq-02.html?id=hePjXJus)
Swiftech Apogee Water Block (3/8 & 1/2) (http://xoxide.com/swiftech-apogee-water-block.html)
Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=172&cat=33&page=1)

So there you have it. If you guys could please help me out with the water cooling system by telling me what else I need to buy and what I should change, please let me know. This system is going to be kind of dependent on water since I got an opty for overclocking. Thanks a ton everybody.

[Rhondo H. Slade]

Bill...

Just get a Zalman Reserator and then you won't have to worry about shoehorning a "neat" reservoir into a drive bay or anywhere else IN your case.

Steve

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Bill Cutting
I would like to have a cool reservior that would go in a drive bay or something, but i cant seem to find one that would get the tube fitting right. So far, this is what I have for the water system:
Swiftech MCP655 1/2in. pump (http://xoxide.com/swiftech-mcp655.html)
Black Ice Xtreme II Radiator (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=2&cat=5&page=1)
Swiftech Green UV Reactive HydrX Coolant (http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-liq-02.html?id=hePjXJus)
Swiftech Apogee Water Block (3/8 & 1/2) (http://xoxide.com/swiftech-apogee-water-block.html)
Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=172&cat=33&page=1)

So there you have it. If you guys could please help me out with the water cooling system by telling me what else I need to buy and what I should change, please let me know. This system is going to be kind of dependent on water since I got an opty for overclocking. Thanks a ton everybody.

If you want to have a reservoir, here is one choice:

PrimoChill Typhoon Acrylic-Single 5 1/4 Repack - UV Green $49.95 (http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=item&id=2507&prevaction=category&previd=2&prevstart=0) <--- make sure you add the 2x G4 Chrome High Flow Fittings (1/2" OD for 1/2" ID tubing0 $4.25

You're also going to want 2 fans. Maybe these, if you're not concerned about the acrylic look:

Panaflo 120x38mm Ultra Quiet $12 (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/pa12ulqu.html)

[Bill Cutting]

say if I were to buy this reservior (http://xoxide.com/thermaltake-aquabay-m3-reservoir.html) , What adapters would I have to get to fit the tubing that I had picked out? I think it was 1/2'' ID and 3/4'' OD. I don't know I might just scratch the whole reservior idea since I only know how to set up a T-Line system. I also have another pickle. I'm not really sure where I could put the radiator on my case (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811148033). I know i can fit everything else in the case, but I kind of dont really want to have to cut any holes or whatnot into the case because it's made out of acrylic and it would be bad if it cracked. But anyways, let me know what you guys think about the radiator placement situation and thereservior situation. Thanks.

P.S. oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I have a couple of 120's that I can mount onto the radiator, Rotn.

[Bill Cutting]

This is where I was thinking of putting the reservior (http://i3.tinypic.com/16bgfmt.jpg)

Right between the hard drive cage and the wall of the case. I would have to cut out a box so that the two 120's could suck in air from outside the case, but I think that would probably be the eaiest way to do it. What do you guys think?

[Bill Cutting]

Well guys, I think ive got this figured out. I'm just going to do a T-Line setup, mainly because I don't know how to do it any other way, but also because im having too much grief with looking for a suitable reservior. Anyways, here's what the lineup looks like:

Pump
Swiftech MCP655 1/2in. Water Pump (http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-mcp655.html)

Water Block
Swiftech Apogee Water Block(3/8 & 1/2) (http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-apogee-water-block.html)

Radiator
Black Ice Xtreme II (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=2&cat=5&page=1)

UV Juice
Swiftech Green UV Reactive HydrX Coolant (http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-liq-02.html?id=hePjXJus)

Tubing
Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=172&cat=33&page=1)

T-Fitting
1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting (http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-tub-14.html)

Fillport
Danger Den Fillport (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=56&cat=34&page=1)

So there you have it, tell me what you think.

[Bill Cutting]

bump

[shadowarrior33]

this is pretty good.almost like mine

but if you have a few extra dollars, buy the swiftech storm instead

[shadowarrior33]

and dont forget 2x120mm fans for the rad

[Bill Cutting]

yeah ive got a couple of 120's that i can use, shadow. BTW, did anyone take a look at the pic of my case that I posted concerning where I thought I would be placing my radiator? I figure that it would work out ok as long as I cut a box out just so that the 120's that are attached to the rad will be sucking in air. I kind of feel like it would make the water cooler if it were pulling the air through the rad, like in Rotn's system, but I cant think of any way to do that given my comp case. If you guys have any ideas of where I should put the rad, let me know. BTW, I've got everything ordered, my rig, water cooling stuff, and some neat little things like an IceMat II mouse pad. Now I just have to wait.

[rotNdude]

Originally posted by Bill Cutting
This is where I was thinking of putting the reservior (http://i3.tinypic.com/16bgfmt.jpg)

Right between the hard drive cage and the wall of the case. I would have to cut out a box so that the two 120's could suck in air from outside the case, but I think that would probably be the eaiest way to do it. What do you guys think?

Sorry for not following up, M8! I've been tied up with other things.

I think you meant placement of the radiator, but I understand. That radiator placement will work just fine, assuming you have the space between components. I can't seem to find dimensions on the case you selected, so it may be best to get the case and then give us some dimensions.

[shadowarrior33]

well depending on how big your case is, you could either put it inside like rotndude did, i chose an easier way. i made a hole for the fillport and place the pump inside the case.then i took of the metal braket that covers the expansion slots on the case and the cut the metal bars that separates the expention slots. like this i could pass tubes from inside my case to outise. i then put the rad outside my case side after measuring everything and making plans, i figured out that my case was too small to receive a rad on its top without touching the psu

[rotNdude]

That's what I was thinking too about the radiator or even on top of the case (no big hole, just smaller holes for tubing and fan wires) and leave have the radiator a couple of inches off the case top.

[Rhondo H. Slade]

tw33ter...

Just remember that Delrin is a REALLY SOFT Nylon/Teflon type of material; easily worked but very susceptible to damage from gouging, etc.

Steve

[Tw33ter]

Originally posted by Rhondo H. Slade
tw33ter...

Just remember that Delrin is a REALLY SOFT Nylon/Teflon type of material; easily worked but very susceptible to damage from gouging, etc.

Steve

huh? lol

[Bill Cutting]

Originally posted by shadowarrior33
well depending on how big your case is, you could either put it inside like rotndude did, i chose an easier way. i made a hole for the fillport and place the pump inside the case.then i took of the metal braket that covers the expansion slots on the case and the cut the metal bars that separates the expention slots. like this i could pass tubes from inside my case to outise. i then put the rad outside my case side after measuring everything and making plans, i figured out that my case was too small to receive a rad on its top without touching the psu

That sounds like a good idea, actually. I never really thought of doing that. The main thing is I'm kind of worried about drilling into the case because I don't want it to crack at all, but I'm going to have to since I went with the T-Line setup and I have to put in the fillport. I believe that the dimensions of the case are 12.2" x 22.6" x 24.4"(WxHxD), if that helps at all. I think that all of my water cooling equipment will be arriving tomorrow, and the actualy computer parts will be here on Friday, so I think I'm going to follow some of those pre-game tips for cleansing your radiator with vinegar and distilled water, etc. OH BTW, I have an extra psu that I could use for bumping the pump.... but I read the guide to bumping on the first page of this thread and i don't get it... How do you start the psu up? I mean, dont you have to have it connected to your mobo and all that shizno? So give me a hint on bumping, and let me know if you have any more ideas for a place to put my radiator.

[shadowarrior33]

well when i bumbed my rad, the psu 24pin mobo connector was connected since it is the only way it hink possible to start up the psu and pump.But i didnt connect thr 8pin cpu wires. i didnt connnect anything and no hdd,cd drives and fans not videocard connected only the 24 pins,the pump and the power switch to the mobo.

Also dont worry that much about leaks since distilled water isnt conductive (only the minerals like salt and other things in water makes it cinductive.

so if there is a leak just turn off the psu and let it dry for a few hours to make sure but im sure no damage will be done.

so ya fill in the loop and mae sure that before you bumb the pump, that you prime the pump before.so always have water in the pump.Also dont worry if there is alot of bubbles in the water at first. after you let it bleed for a few hours, its gonna be fine

[Bill Cutting]

Originally posted by shadowarrior33
well when i bumbed my rad, the psu 24pin mobo connector was connected since it is the only way it hink possible to start up the psu and pump.But i didnt connect thr 8pin cpu wires. i didnt connnect anything and no hdd,cd drives and fans not videocard connected only the 24 pins,the pump and the power switch to the mobo.

Also dont worry that much about leaks since distilled water isnt conductive (only the minerals like salt and other things in water makes it cinductive.

so if there is a leak just turn off the psu and let it dry for a few hours to make sure but im sure no damage will be done.

so ya fill in the loop and mae sure that before you bumb the pump, that you prime the pump before.so always have water in the pump.Also dont worry if there is <font color=orange>a lot</font> of bubbles in the water at first. after you let it bleed for a few hours, its gonna be fine

Ok... I'll re-read over the bumping guide again and see what happens. I think that video that Rotn posted is a good help. So I'll work out all that shizno today, and hopefully ill have some pics and specs posted on here by saturday. thanks for all the help guys!

[renegadelz]

is there any of those system that are for sale in toronto? cuz most of them are out of stock :(

[Assassinxkilla]

bump :( sorry...so it doesnt get purged like some of my other threads...

[Bill Cutting]

well ive got all my stuff in and it appears that there is going to have to be some remodeling.... there is no way the rad is going to fit inside my case... Suggestions?